Assateague Island National Seashore was created 22 years after neighboring Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge was established to protect migratory birds, like the greater snow goose. In combination with Assateague State Park, they protect a 37-mile stretch of undeveloped barrier island that crosses the border of Maryland and Virginia (and is very close to Delaware). The National Park Service (NPS) manages the National Seashore and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service manages the National Wildlife Refuge, each with their own visitor center.
Highlights
Museum, film, wild ponies, camping, kayaking, swimming, beachcombing, Life of the Dunes Trail, Life of the Forest Trail, Life of the Marsh Trail
Must-Do Activity
Stop by the Assateague Island Visitor Center before driving over the Verrazano Bridge onto the barrier island. The beach is the big draw here, and there also are nice hiking trails and kayak rentals are available. The over-sand vehicle (OSV) zone requires a permit for four-wheel drive vehicles to drive on the beach and camp. Keep an eye out for wild ponies, the subject of the classic children’s book Misty of Chincoteague by Marguerite Henry (which made our Top 10 NPS Novels list).
Best Trail
Life of the Dunes Trail is a three-quarter-mile loop just inland from the beach, while half-mile Life of the Forest Trail and Life of the Marsh Trail offer boardwalks on the bayside of the barrier island. The best hike may be simply walking down the beach.
Instagram-worthy Photo
Assateague Island’s most renowned residents are its wild ponies, purported to have swum ashore from a wrecked Spanish galleon.
The access roads are paved, but with a permit you can drive 13 miles of beach on the Maryland side and five miles on the Virginia side. It takes about 1.2 hours to drive the highways between the north and south bridges to Assateague Island.
Camping
On the Maryland side, the NPS operates two campgrounds with cold showers, but the one in Assateague State Park offers hot showers. Two oceanside backpacking camps and four bayside kayak-in camps are also available by permit.
Jointly managed with Sequoia National Park since 1943, Kings Canyon does not often receive the individual accolades that it deserves. The separate Kings Canyon area was added in 1940 to keep this 8,200-foot-deep valley from being dammed. Much of the park is a mountain wilderness, which can be most easily seen from 7,520-foot Panoramic Point on the Kings Canyon Scenic Byway. Unlike Yosemite National Park, there is no road over the Sierra Nevada to access the east side.
General Grant Tree, Kings Canyon Scenic Byway, Panoramic Point, Cedar Grove, Roaring River Falls, Zumwalt Meadow, Mist Falls, Redwood Canyon, John Muir Trail, Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail
Must-Do Activity
Kings Canyon Scenic Byway is a curvy road that offers plenty of great views as its winds from the General Grant Grove through Giant Sequoia National Monument to dead end at Cedar Grove. One must-do stop before you reach the park boundary is Grizzly Falls, which also has a picnic area. Another inside the National Park is Roaring River Falls, an easy half-mile walk down the River Trail near the end of the road. Between the two sections of the park along the Kings Canyon Scenic Byway, the U.S Forest Service manages Boyden Cave and offers tours in the summer that include a visit to the Bat Grotto (see where it placed on the list of Top 10 Caves in National Forests).
Best Trail
Woods Creek Trail leaves from near Cedar Grove and is an eight-mile roundtrip hike back to beautiful Mist Falls. Permits are required to backpack along the John Muir Trail, one of the most scenic stretches of the 2,655-mile Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.
Photographic Opportunity
The General Grant Tree is a giant sequoia currently measuring 268.1 feet tall and 29 feet in diameter, making it by volume the second largest single-stemmed tree on the planet after General Sherman in Sequoia National Park. [Disclaimer: Not sure this photo is actually of General Grant.]
Closed in the winter, the steep and curvy Kings Canyon Scenic Byway is a paved road that always makes us feel a little nauseous due to the elevation change. Not far upstream from hectic Cedar Grove Village, a smooth section of the South Fork Kings River is traced by a quiet one-way dirt road that meanders through the forest on the north bank.
Camping
The National Park Service runs several large campgrounds clustered around Grant Grove and Cedar Grove. Sequoia National Forest also offers several campgrounds between these two separate sections of the park, including a nice one along the shores of Hume Lake.
John Muir TrailBighorn sheepJohn Muir TrailRavens about the park
Explore More – How long is the popular Rae Lakes Loop backpacking route, which can also be accessed from the east through Inyo National Forest over Kearsarge Pass?
We are currently in an ice age that has lasted 2.58 million years with climate fluctuations leading to melting during warmer interglacial periods, such as the one we are experiencing today. The Wisconsin Glaciation was the most recent in North America, which began roughly 100,000 BP (years Before Present) and reached its greatest extent 20,000 BP, and then repeatedly retreated and readvanced until finally ending 10,000 BP. As the ice melted, gorges were carved at the Dalles of the St. Croix River and the Wisconsin Dells. In 1958, conservationist Ray Zillmer conceived of the idea of an Ice Age National Park in Wisconsin, and after his death, Congressman Henry S. Reuss sponsored a bill establishing the multi-unit Ice Age National Scientific Reserve. In 1980, Ruess passed a bill creating the Ice Age National Scenic Trail, which was first thru-hiked the year prior by 20-year-old James J. Staudacher. In 2023, it officially became a National Park Service unit (along with North Country National Scenic Trail), although it is primarily managed by volunteers through the non-profit Ice Age Trail Alliance (www.iceagetrail.org).
Ice Age National Scenic Trail is covered in my newest travel guidebook American History 101, which will be released in November 2026.
Highlights
Interstate State Park, Chequamegon National Forest, Devil’s Lake State Park, Gibraltar Rock, Cross Plains State Park, Kettle Moraine, Potawatomi State Park
Must-Do Activity
The National Park Service has an administrative office in the 1,200-acre Glacial Passage Area that includes Cross Plains State Park and meltwater-carved Wilkie Gorge. Here visitors can get their Junior Ranger book (or print one at home) and passport stamps, which are also available at Devil’s Lake State Park, Interstate State Park, Chippewa Moraine State Recreation Area, Northern Kettle Moraine State Forest, and St. Croix National Scenic Riverway. In addition to enjoying forest scenery and wildlife sightings, a great part of hiking the trail is learning geology terminology like kame, drumlin, kettle moraine, pothole, esker, and glacial erratic.
Best Trail
The 1,200-mile trail is composed of over 100 segments from Interstate State Park on the St. Croix River east to Potawatomi State Park on the Door Peninsula. There are 675 miles of trail completed, connected by a series of road walks. The trail splits in two for a stretch north of Devil’s Lake State Park, with the eastern portion more developed currently.
Photographic Opportunity
In Devil’s Lake State Park, the famous Devil’s Doorway quartzite formation is accessed by a 2.1-mile loop trail that gains 488 feet of elevation cumulatively. The park also contains a bird effigy mound, like the ones seen in Effigy Mounds National Monument in Iowa.
$16 per vehicle ($13 for Wisconsin plates) at State Parks (and America the Beautiful passes are also accepted)
Road Conditions
Many portions of the trail involve road walking, so watch for pedestrians while driving.
Camping
Some parts of the trail allow camping anywhere, but others have designated sites so it is important for thru-hikers to plan carefully. Interstate and Devil’s Lake State Parks offer developed campgrounds (fee).
Devil’s Lake State ParkWondon thinks the Ice Age Trail needs more iceWestern terminus in Interstate State ParkPotawatomi State ParkEastern terminus in Potawatomi State Park
Explore More – Why was a ten-mile connector built off the Ice Age Trail to reach Timms Hill?
Mt. Hood National Forest is named for the 11,249-foot-tall stratovolcano that dominates the skyline east of Portland. It has 12 glaciers that feed the amazing waterfalls of the region, several of which you can drive right up to in Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area (see our blog post). This area was first established as the Bull Run Forest Reserve in 1892 and was considered for National Park status beginning in 1940. One famous destination is Bagby Hot Springs (fee), accessible by a 1.4-mile trail to hand-hewn tubs with cedar plumbing. The lower bathhouse contains three individual log tubs and one six-foot round tub, while the upper bathhouse contains another six-foot round tub on an open deck.
Know someone who loves the National Forests? Gift them our travel guidebook Out in the Woods so they can learn more about all 155 National Forests.
The highest of the five ski resorts on Mt. Hood is located at the end of a steep, six-mile-long paved drive off Highway 26. It is home to Timberline Lodge, a National Historic Landmark you might recognize from the opening scenes of the 1980 film The Shining. The ornate woodwork from the 1930s harkens back to a bygone era of craftsmanship, which is on display throughout the main lobby and the Rachael Griffin Historic Exhibition Center. Downhill skiing is sometimes open throughout the summer, but even without skis you can take the sky ride to 7,000 feet in elevation for great views south of Mt. Jefferson and the Three Sisters in Deschutes National Forest. Spring is the season for summitting Mt. Hood, and climbers must carry a free uphill travel pass and a WAG bag (human waste pack out bag). Another popular spot, Olallie Scenic Area, is a high-elevation lake basin north of Mt. Jefferson. Mountain bikers are drawn to Mt. Hood National Recreation Area (see our blog post).
Best Trail
The hike behind Tamanawas Falls leaves from a trailhead near Sherwood Campground, where a rolling two-mile hike rises a cumulative 360 feet through a shady Douglas-fir forest as it follows the course of Cold Spring Creek. At the base of the 100-foot-tall waterfall, a careful climb up slippery wet rocks takes hikers behind the curtain of water. There are 1,200 miles of trails in the National Forest, including the 40.7-mile Timberline Trail built around Mt. Hood by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s. Part of the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail shares this route as it skirts the volcano’s western slope.
Watchable Wildlife
Mt. Hood National Forest has both Roosevelt and Rocky Mountain elk, as well as mule deer, red foxes, coyotes, mountain lions, and black bears. Less commonly seen are badgers, American pika, and Pacific marten. Large birds include golden eagles, pileated woodpeckers, and Steller’s jays. Situated at 4,900 feet in elevation, 240-acre Olallie Lake is stocked with both rainbow and brook trout. The Sandy River and its tributaries have runs of chinook salmon, coho salmon, and steelhead.
Photographic Opportunity
One particularly great spot to photograph Mt. Hood is from Lost Lake, which has canoe rentals and a nice three-mile hiking trail that encircles it. We have also heard that Trillium Lake offers a great view.
Peak Season
Summer
Fees
$10 day use fee (no America the Beautiful passes accepted, but some take a Northwest Forest Pass) at the most popular areas like Trillium Lake; $15 at Lost Lake with no passes accepted; $5 per person at the Bagby Hot Springs with no passes accepted; $5 (or America the Beautiful pass) at Frog Lake Sno-Park/Trailhead; State of Oregon Sno-Park permit required November 1 through April 30 at some trailheads; see website for details: https://www.fs.usda.gov/r06/mthood/passes
Road Conditions
The road is paved to Timberline Lodge, but there are many unpaved roads in this area, some of which are in bad shape due to the high amounts of precipitation.
Camping
There are more than 70 campgrounds in Mt. Hood National Forest, including seven in Olallie Scenic Area. The popular Bagby Campground near the hot springs does not take reservations. Dispersed camping is a great way to enjoy the area.
Mt. Hood from Timberline LodgeGlaciers and fumarolesScott going up The Chute to summit Mt. HoodView south from Mt. Hood’s summitMt. JeffersonTimberline LodgeTimberline LodgeLost LakeTamanawas FallsTamanawas FallsTamanawas FallsTamanawas Falls
The Vermilion Cliffs are a red sandstone escarpment that rises 3,000 feet above the plains north of Arizona’s Grand Canyon (and they especially glow vermilion at sunrise and sunset). This undeveloped geologic wonderland is a colorful mixture of sandstone, siltstone, limestone, and shale. The cliffs create thermals perfect for 20 species of raptors, including bald eagles, golden eagles, peregrine falcons, and endangered California condors that were first reintroduced here in 1996.
Coyote Buttes North (The Wave), Maze Rock Art Site, White Pocket, Paria River Canyon
Must-Do Activity
There are several visitor centers to get information about the National Monument, including at Navajo Bridge on Highway 89A and the seasonal Paria Contact Station off Highway 89, as well as Bureau of Land Management (BLM) offices in Utah at Kanab, St. George, and Big Water. Guided tours are available to White Pocket (no permit required) if you do not want the challenge of driving the sandy roads.
Best Trail
It is a 1.4-mile roundtrip hike to the petroglyphs at the Maze Rock Art Site off House Rock Valley Road that may be more than 1,000 years old. Backpacking 38-mile-long Paria Canyon is a world-famous route that ends at Lees Ferry in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Permits are required to overnight, and most thru-hikers set out from White House Trailhead within Utah’s Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument to avoid the slot canyons on Wire Pass Trail or Buckskin Gulch Trail (which often has waist deep mud).
Photographic Opportunity
Coyote Buttes North (The Wave) is one of the most sought-after photography locations in the U.S., but most of us will never win that lottery. Here is a similarly beautiful sandstone formation in White Pocket, which is open to visit by anyone with a 4×4 that can get through miles of deep sand (or hire a guide to drive).
No entrance fee, but a $9 online lottery entry and $7 permits for each person and dog apply for Coyote Buttes North (The Wave), they cost slightly less for Coyote Buttes South and Paria River Canyon
Road Conditions
House Rock Valley Road (BLM 700) runs 30 miles between Highways 89 and 89A to the south, crossing several washes, but it is passable with a passenger vehicle when dry. Most of the roads running east from House Rock Valley Road require four-wheel drive due to deep sand (including access to White Pocket).
Camping
Dispersed camping is allowed in most of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, and the BLM runs the free Stateline Campground (that is the official northern terminus of the Arizona National Scenic Trail) on the northern border and White House Campground (fee) in Utah.
Related Sites
Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument (Utah)
