All posts by Raven About The Parks

Idaho, Montana, Washington

Kaniksu National Forest

July 24, 2024 Raven About The Parks 1 Comment

Kaniksu National Forest

Idaho, Montana, Washington

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Northern Region

1,833,582 acres (1,628,024 federal/ 205,558 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/ipnf

Overview

In the mountainous tip of the Idaho pandhandle bordering Canada, Kaniksu National Forest stretches into three states. Recreational opportunities surround three major rivers and two large natural bodies of water: Lake Pend Oreille and Priest Lake. As you might imagine in a place this wet, waterfalls abound (see Must-Do Activity). Coeur d’Alene National Forest is located on both sides of Interstate 90, east of the city of Coeur d’Alene, which was the French name given to the indigenous people. In 1973, Kaniksu National Forest was joined with Coeur d’Alene and St. Joe National Forests to form Idaho Panhandle National Forests.

Highlights

Priest Lake, Northeast Peak Scenic Area, Lake Pend Oreille, Bottle Lake, Snow Creek Falls, Chimney Rock, Huff Lake, Canyon Creek Natural Area, Copper Falls, Gunsight Peak, Hahn Lake, Hanna Flats Nature Trail, Gold Hill Trail

Must-Do Activity

As you might imagine in a place this wet, waterfalls abound, including 160-foot Copper Falls, 150-foot Jeru Creek Falls, 75-foot Wellington Creek Falls, and 75-foot Char Falls. South of Bonners Ferry, a forest road leads to Snow Creek Falls with an upper drop of 125 feet and a lower plunge of 75 feet. Rapid Lightning Falls, Grouse Creek Falls, and Torelle Falls are also in Kaniksu National Forest. If you want to see more waterfalls, Moyie Falls drops 140 feet in a series of cascades located just outside the National Forest and there is a roadside pullout at Albani Falls Dam on the Pend Oreille River. A paved scenic byway follows the north shore of Lake Pend Oreille and the Clarks Fork River into Montana.

Best Trail

First discovered by a forester in 1919, the Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars Scenic Area in Washington was named in honor of Theodore Roosevelt. A 1926 fire killed three-quarters of the trees, leaving two smaller remnant patches. Most of the western redcedars are around 800 years old, but some of them are estimated to be more than 2,000 years old. Of course, since this is Kaniksu National Forest there is also a trail here to a waterfall, with a one-mile loop climbing 200 feet to an overlook. From that point it is only a half-mile walk to the 20-acre Upper Grove. The trail leaves from the colorfully-named Stagger Inn Trailhead, which gets its moniker from a 1926 fire camp located an exhausting 14-mile hike from the nearest road.

Watchable Wildlife

Kaniksu National Forest is home to mule deer, elk, moose, black bears, bobcats, coyotes, and mountain lions. This close to Canada, it is also possible to find grizzly bears and gray wolves. The Selkirk Mountains represent the sole place in the contiguous U.S. where you might see mountain caribou. Common large birds include ospreys, golden eagles, bald eagles, wild turkeys, and ravens. The National Forest borders Lake Pend Oreille and Priest Lake, plus it contains many of the rivers and creeks that feed them, which provide incredible fishing opportunities.

Photographic Opportunity

At the Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars Scenic Area, a one-mile loop trail climbs to a vista above Lower Granite Falls where Upper Granite Falls may be viewed.

Peak Season

Summer

Fees

None

Road Conditions

A long dirt road (FR 302) leads to the Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars Scenic Area in Washington (and continues west into neighboring Colville National Forest), but it is maintained in good condition for passenger vehicles, although not all forest roads are.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds on the west side of Priest Lake and around Lake Pend Oreille, plus dispersed campsites along the dirt roads near the Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars Scenic Area.

Wilderness Areas

Cabinet Mountains Wilderness (also in Kootenai National Forest)

Salmo-Priest Wilderness (also in Colville National Forest)

Related Sites

Coeur d’Alene National Forest (Idaho)

Clearwater National Forest (Idaho)

Nez Perce National Historical Park (Idaho-Oregon-Montana)

Nearest National Park

Glacier

Conifer Tree Species

western redcedar, ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, western white pine, whitebark pine, Douglas-fir, grand fir, subalpine fir, Engelmann spruce, western hemlock, mountain hemlock, western larch

Flowering Tree Species

Rocky Mountain maple, quaking aspen, Pacific dogwood, balsam poplar, dwarf birch, paper birch, Piper’s hawthorn, boxelder, Bebb willow, western mountain-ash, choke cherry, western serviceberry, red alder, mountain alder

Explore More – Kaniksu is derived from a Kalispel Indian word meaning what?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods

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Arizona

Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni–Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument

July 17, 2024 Raven About The Parks Leave a comment

Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni–Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument

Arizona

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management

Established 2023

917,618 acres

Website: https://www.blm.gov/national-conservation-lands/arizona/ancestral-footprints

Overview

This new National Monument is situated on both the North and South Rim of the Grand Canyon, but outside the boundaries of Grand Canyon National Park. It includes the entirety of the Tusayan District of Kaibab National Forest on the South Rim, as well as two sections east and west of the 9,000-foot Kaibab Plateau on the Arizona Strip. Its name is derived from the Havasupai words Baaj Nwaavjo, which translate as “where indigenous peoples roam,” plus the Hopi term I’tah Kukveni, which means “our ancestral footprints.” According to the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) website it is pronounced “Baahj-Nuh-Waahv-Joh, Ee-Tah-Kook-Venny.” The National Monument was created primarily to prevent future uranium mining claims in this area and further protect evidence of thousands of years of human habitation (see Best Trail).

Learn more about the other 137 National Monuments in our book Monumental America: Your Guide to All 138 National Monuments. It is now available for sale on Amazon.com.

Highlights

Red Butte, Hull Cabin, Apex Logging Camp, Grand Canyon Airport Historic District, Marble Canyon, Snake Gulch, Arizona National Scenic Trail

Must-Do Activity

Red Butte is located just east of paved Highway 64/180 on the way to Grand Canyon National Park’s South Rim. A short 3.3-mile out-and-back trail with 912 feet of elevation gain is found at this geological formation sacred to the Havasupai, Hualapai, Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni people. Also in this area, Hull Cabin dates back to 1889 and Apex Logging Camp was situated along the Grand Canyon Railroad between 1928 and 1936 (although not much remains other than the foundation of a one-room schoolhouse). The Arizona National Scenic Trail runs through this part of Kaibab National Forest before entering the Grand Canyon and crossing the Kaibab Plateau.

Best Trail

Snake Gulch-Kanab Creek Trail #59 starts at the end of unpaved Forest Road 642 (about five miles from the end of pavement on Forest Highway 22). It soon passes an old homestead and turns left to enter the canyon, part of the extensive Kanab Creek Wilderness (and within the National Monument boundary). The first pictographs can be seen about 2.5 miles in and from then on consistently on the north side of the canyon. The images are primarily done in red paint from the Basketmaker People who resided in this region from 300 BCE to AD 800. We hiked in seven miles then turned around as it started to get really hot in late June, but the trail through the canyon continues 21 miles to where it connects with Ranger Trail #41. Our favorite pictographs were located about four miles in, which would make a good turnaround point for a day hike.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Stop at the historic Navajo Bridge that crosses the Colorado River at Marble Canyon where four public lands meet: Grand Canyon National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, and Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni-Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument.

Peak Season

Spring and fall, as summer can be very hot

Hours

Navajo Bridge Visitor Center (National Park Service)

https://www.nps.gov/glca/planyourvisit/visitorcenters.htm

Fees

None

Road Conditions

There are many unpaved and four-wheel-drive-only roads spread across this area, but Highway 64/180 to the South Rim is paved. High clearance is recommended to access Snake Gulch-Kanab Creek Trailhead. Highway 67 and most Forest Roads on the Kaibab Plateau are closed in winter due to heavy snowfall.

Camping

There are good, dispersed camping options throughout Kaibab National Forest, including along the dirt roads just outside the east entrance of Grand Canyon National Park’s South Rim before entering the Navajo Nation.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument (Arizona)

Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument (Arizona)

Pipe Spring National Monument (Arizona)

Explore More – When were beefalo (bison and cattle mix) introduced to the House Rock Valley area west of Marble Canyon (and now found roaming inside Grand Canyon National Park and Kaibab National Forest)?

Learn more about the other 137 National Monuments in our book Monumental America: Your Guide to All 138 National Monuments

Arizona

Kaibab National Forest

July 10, 2024 Raven About The Parks 1 Comment

Kaibab National Forest

Arizona

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Southwestern Region

1,601,066 acres (1,560,165 federal/ 40,901 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab

Overview

Kaibab National Forest is located both north and south of Grand Canyon National Park, although the paved road from Jacob Lake to the North Rim is closed throughout the winter months due to heavy snowfall on the 9,000-foot Kaibab Plateau. There are numerous dirt roads to explore on each side of the canyon that in 2023 were encompassed into Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni – Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument (see our next blog post). The Grand Canyon Forest Reserve was first set aside in 1893, then became Kaibab National Forest in 1908 before Grand Canyon National Park was removed from its acreage a decade later. In 1934, the southern Tusayan National Forest was joined to form the present boundaries.

Highlights

Kaibab Plateau Scenic Byway, Hull Cabin, Snake Gulch, Kendrick Peak, Sycamore Canyon, Beale Wagon Road, Overland Road, Bill Williams Mountain, Kanab Creek Wilderness, Thunder River Trail

Must-Do Activity

The highest point in Kaibab National Forest is 10,418-foot Kendrick Peak located in the Kendrick Peak Wilderness northwest of Flagstaff, which experienced a large wildfire in 2000. Scott started as a student at Northern Arizona University the next year, and has been able to watch this area recover over the decades since. Seven miles of dirt roads leave Highway 180 to access the Kendrick Mountain Trailhead at 7,980 feet in elevation. A steep, switchbacking 4.6-mile one-way trail partly follows a closed road to the top past Old Lookout Cabin (built in 1912). Bull Basin and Pumpkin Trails also lead to Kendrick Peak, but require more dirt road driving. From the summit, views are good north towards the Grand Canyon and east to the taller San Francisco Peaks within Coconino National Forest.

Best Trail

Bill Williams Mountain dominates the skyline in the town of Williams, the southern terminus of the 65-mile-long Grand Canyon Railway. Several routes climb to the top of the peak, but Bixler Saddle Trail starts higher than the others at 7,700 feet. It is accessed by a rocky road that leads to a small parking area at the saddle. From there the trail gains 1,000 feet in elevation in 2.5 miles before connecting with Bill Williams Mountain Trail to finish climbing a half-mile to the lookout tower at 9,256 feet. No matter how you summit, at the top there are breathtaking views in all directions.

Watchable Wildlife

Elk and mule deer are commonly seen on both sides of the Grand Canyon. Apparently, bison were introduced in the early 1900s and now roam freely in the National Forest, in addition to mountain lions, bobcats, and black bears. The canyon formed a natural barrier for the evolution of distantly-related Kaibab squirrels on the North Rim, a subspecies of the Abert’s squirrels found on the South Rim. Common birds include wild turkeys, robins, nuthatches, northern flickers, rufous hummingbirds, Steller jays, American crows, common ravens, and a variety of hawks. Fishing is a popular activity, with some excellent trout streams found in the National Forest.

Instagram-worthy Photo

There are five trailheads that access the 12-mile Sycamore Rim Trail loop, located south of Interstate 40 after driving ten miles of good dirt road. The trail passes through a ponderosa pine forest with overlooks of the Sycamore Canyon Wilderness, also managed by Coconino and Prescott National Forests.

Peak Season

Summer

Fees

None

Road Conditions

The paved road from Jacob Lake, Arizona to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is closed throughout the winter months due to heavy snowfall. There are countless miles of dirt roads on each side of the canyon that access trailheads and allow for dispersed camping.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds spread throughout the National Forest, as well as rentals of the historic 1917 Spring Valley Cabin and 1889 Hull Cabin (within the newly created Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni – Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument).

Wilderness Areas

Kanab Creek Wilderness

Kendrick Mountain Wilderness (also in Coconino National Forest)

Saddle Mountain Wilderness

Sycamore Canyon Wilderness (also in Coconino and Prescott National Forests)

Related Sites

Pipe Spring National Monument (Arizona)

Tuzigoot National Monument (Arizona)

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument (Arizona)

Nearest National Park

Grand Canyon

Kaibab Plateau Visitor Center in Jacob Lake

Conifer Tree Species

ponderosa pine, limber pine, southwestern white pine, two-needle pinyon pine, Utah juniper, one-seed juniper, Rocky Mountain juniper, Douglas-fir, white fir, Engelmann spruce

Flowering Tree Species

Gambel oak, quaking aspen, boxelder, Arizona sycamore, Arizona walnut, Fremont cottonwood

Explore More – Kaibab is the Paiute name for the Grand Canyon, which translates as what?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.

List

Top 10 National Park Service Sites for Living History

July 2, 2024 Raven About The Parks 5 Comments

Parks Canada is all about costumed interpreters pretending to be from a specific time period, like the Vikings at L’Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland and the fur traders at Fort Langley, British Columbia. However, in the U.S., the National Park Service (NPS) has decreased the presence of living history reenactors over recent decades. In March 2024, Bent’s Old Fort National Historic Site near La Junta, Colorado announced it was removing its costumed interpreters except on specific weekends, similar to the Civil War sites like Gettysburg National Military Park (neighboring Eisenhower National Historic Site also has living history weekends commemorating World War I and II). There are still blacksmiths to be found at some NPS sites and weapons demonstrations at others, but private museums are the main place to find this type of interpretation today in the U.S. So we decided to make a list of NPS sites where you can still travel back in time. Please let us know if you have any favorites that we left off. Click here to see all our Top 10 lists.

10. Fort Vancouver National Historic Site (Washington)

Reconstructed buildings include the bakehouse, blacksmith shop, chief factor’s house, fur store, and bastion with costumed reenactors inside

9. New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park (Louisiana)

Park rangers play concerts at the New Orleans Jazz Museum

8. Fort Laramie National Historic Site (Wyoming)

Order a sarsaparilla at the bar at this significant stop on the Oregon Trail (come on the 4th of July for sack races, cannon firing demonstrations, and fireworks)

7. Lowell National Historical Park (Massachusetts)

Watch working textile machinery inside the old Boott Cotton Mills

6. Fort Larned National Historic Site (Kansas)

The soldiers, blacksmith, schoolteacher, commissar, and officers’ wives love to share stories of this extraordinary place on the Santa Fe National Historic Trail

5. Golden Spike National Historical Park (Utah)

Colorfully reconstructed train engines run daily in the summer to evoke the spirit of May 10, 1869

4. Grand Portage National Monument (Minnesota)

Rendezvous with costumed reenactors who demonstrate canoe building, bread baking, and weapons firing at this reconstructed North West Company headquarters on Lake Superior

3. Castillo de San Marcos National Monument (Florida)

If you do not want to pay the admission fee to enter the fort, you can still watch the cannon-firing demonstrations atop its corner bastion for free from outside the moat

2. Cuyahoga Valley National Park (Ohio)

Stop at the Canal Exploration Center at working Lock 38, experience living history at Hale Farm and Village (fee), and board the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad for a train ride

…and finally our #1 National Park Service Sites for living history:

1. Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site (Montana)

All things “cowboy” are remembered here with volunteer interpreters roaming on horseback

Honorable Mentions

Colonial National Historical Park (Virginia)

Next door to the NPS site is Jamestowne Settlement with reenactors at the Powhatan Indian Village, fort, and three reproduction ships (plus, don’t miss nearby Colonial Williamsburg, the national capital of living history)

Fort Raleigh National Historic Site (North Carolina)

Step inside the NPS visitor center’s Elizabethan Room, then buy tickets for “The Lost Colony” outdoor musical performed most nights throughout the summer (there is also a musical held outside Theodore Roosevelt National Park in Medora, North Dakota)

Ford’s Theatre National Historic Site (District of Columbia)

Live theater is still performed at this infamous site of Abraham Lincoln’s assassination (but they officially will never stage the play “My American Cousin” that Abe was watching that night)

Boston National Historical Park (Massachusetts)

The NPS does not utilize costumed volunteers, but you can hire a guide who does, plus pay to participate in your own tea party by chucking replica bundles into Boston Harbor

Jewel Cave National Monument and Wind Cave National Park (South Dakota)

Guided cave tours using lanterns are a fun way to explore underground caverns similar to how tourists did it before the invention of electric lights (also available at Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky and Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve)

South Dakota

Fort Pierre National Grassland

June 26, 2024 Raven About The Parks 2 Comments

Fort Pierre National Grassland

South Dakota

207,017 acres (115,890 federal/ 91,127 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/nebraska/recarea/?recid=10637

Overview

Fort Pierre National Grassland is located south of the state capital of Pierre, north of Interstate 90, and west of the Lower Brule Indian Reservation. The topography ranges from gently rolling hills to steeper slopes along creeks that flow into the Bad River and the Missouri River. Portions of the movie Dances with Wolves were filmed here in the early 1990s. If there is abundant spring precipitation, wildflower blooms of goldenrod, spiderwort, purple coneflower, and daisy fleabane are supposed to be incredible.

Highlights

Richland Wildlife Area, Sheriff Dam Recreation Area

Must-Do Activity

Before arriving, download the maps of Fort Pierre National Grassland through the U.S. Forest Service Visitor Maps app, or pick up a paper map at the visitor center in Wall, South Dakota. Look online for the publication South Dakota Fishing Guide to the National Grasslands, which provides information on 41 fishing ponds in Fort Pierre National Grassland. Originally built in 1934, Richland Dam was renovated in 2014 and now features handicapped-accessible fishing and a concrete boat ramp. The reservoir contains largemouth bass, yellow perch, bluegill, black crappie, and bullhead catfish. Fishing ponds are generally open December 1 to August 31 to avoid overlap with hunting season.

Best Trail

We did not see any defined trails, but you could walk cross-country, on the dirt roads, or circle around the many ponds.

Watchable Wildlife

Richland Wildlife Area is 540 acres managed to provide nesting cover for greater prairie chickens, sharp-tailed grouse, and ring-necked pheasants. Black-tailed prairie dog towns provide habitat for prairie rattlesnakes and burrowing owls. Both mule and white-tailed deer are found here, in addition to pronghorns, jackrabbits, badgers, and coyotes. We saw a prairie falcon, bald eagle, and northern harrier hunting from the air.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Look for muskrat activity along the banks of Sherriff Dam Reservoir. This is also where we saw more than 200 red-winged blackbirds take flight from a field of sunflowers (see photos below).

Peak Season

Spring and fall

Fees

None

Road Conditions

The clay soils of Fort Pierre National Grassland can make the unpaved roads impassable to passenger vehicles when muddy, plus the deep ruts make it easy to get high-centered.

Camping

It is free to camp at Richland Dam or Sheriff Dam Recreation Areas, and dispersed camping is allowed anywhere on public land parcels (so be sure to consult maps).

Related Sites

Cedar River National Grassland (North Dakota)

Jewel Cave National Monument (South Dakota)

Minuteman Missile National Historic Site (South Dakota)

Nearest National Park

Badlands

Explore More – Now considered a suburb of the capital city of Pierre (although it is in a different time zone), when was Fort Pierre originally constructed on the Missouri River?

Kaniksu National Forest

Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni–Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument

Kaibab National Forest

Fort Pierre National Grassland

Start your U.S. National Forests, National Parks, and National Monuments adventure here!