All posts by Raven About The Parks

Oklahoma, Texas

Black Kettle National Grassland

August 16, 2023 Raven About The Parks 4 Comments

Black Kettle National Grassland

Oklahoma, Texas

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Southern Region

33,113 acres (31,286 federal/ 1,827 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/cibola/home/?cid=stelprdb5397425

Overview

Like Cimarron National Grassland in Kansas, Black Kettle National Grassland was purchased by the federal government during the 1930s Dust Bowl. This is one of the only National Grasslands with a visitor center, shared with the National Park Service (NPS) who manages Washita Battlefield National Historic Site at the site of an 1868 massacre that took the life of Chief Black Kettle of the Southern Cheyenne. Even though the downstairs U.S. Forest Service office was closed on our Saturday visit, the NPS ranger at the desk provided a map and information on the National Grassland. We also walked the paved interpretive trail at the visitor center that explained homesteading, prescribed burning, and preserving the rare shinnery oak species.

Highlights

Black Kettle Recreation Area, Lake Marvin, Spring Creek Lake, Croton Creek Watchable Wildlife Area, Skipout Lake, Cheyenne Nature Walk

Must-Do Activity

Recreation here surrounds four reservoirs, including a tiny parcel around 63-acre Lake Marvin in Texas. In Oklahoma, there are 60-acre Skipout Lake, 50-acre Spring Creek Lake, and 80-acre Dead Warrior Lake. Fishing, picnicking, and free primitive camping are allowed at all four reservoirs, with a 1.75-mile trail circling Skipout Lake and wooded trails south of Dead Warrior Lake in Black Kettle Recreation Area.

Best Trail

Unlike some other National Grasslands, there are multiple marked and maintained trails here, including two loops totaling 1.6 miles at Croton Creek Watchable Wildlife Area (south of Highway 47) lined by small signs describing native grasses, trees, and birds. A slightly hidden trail is shown on the Forest Service app in the town of Cheyenne where a sidewalk heads into the woods leaving from the parking lot at the high school baseball field. The Cheyenne Nature Walk is paved and has a gazebo and boardwalk crossing a wetland area that was dry during our May visit.

Watchable Wildlife

Three unique bird species we spotted during our May visit were Mississippi kites, northern bobwhite quail, and scissor-tailed flycatchers. In addition, we saw cardinals and woodpeckers, and heard whippoorwills, barn owls, and barred owls overnight. Wild turkeys, cedar waxwings, and lesser prairie chickens are also among the 277 bird species identified. Tracks of white-tailed deer and raccoons were abundant on the Croton Creek Trail, plus there are bobcats, mountain lions, and beavers in the area. Fishermen can catch black bass, saugeye, catfish, and other types of pan fish.

Instagram-worthy Photo

This area is more heavily wooded than some other prairie National Grasslands, which can be experienced on the Croton Creek Trail and Cheyenne Nature Walk (watch for poison-ivy).

Peak Season

Spring and fall

Fees

None

Road Conditions

Highways 283, 33, and 47 are paved roads that run through the National Grassland, and despite abundant spring rainstorms, we did not have any difficulty with the unpaved roads.

Camping

All four lakes offer free primitive campsites with some picnic tables, as does Croton Creek Watchable Wildlife Area where we stayed only six miles west of Cheyenne. RV campsites with hookups at Lake Marvin cost $20 a night.

Alibates Flint Quarries National Monument (Texas)

Cimarron National Grassland (Kansas)

Nearest National Park

Great Sand Dunes

Explore More – The South Canadian River flows north of Black Kettle National Grassland, but what is the river that runs through the middle of it?

List

Top 10 States for National Forests

August 9, 2023 Raven About The Parks 5 Comments

We are currently finishing up our newest travel guidebook 50 States of Great (for sale now on Amazon), which focuses on our favorite National Forest, State Park, Roadside Attraction, and nine other categories for every state in America. There are a few states with only one National Forest (and ten without any), which made the selection process easy, but others like California (with 19) that were a real challenge to pick. With that in mind, we thought it would be fun to select the top states for National Forest biodiversity and recreational opportunities. Click here to see all of our Top 10 Lists, including our Top 10 States for State Parks and Top 10 Day Hiking Trails in National Forests.

10. Florida

Apalachicola, Ocala, and Osceola National Forests

1,434,931 acres (1,176,287 federal/ 258,649 other)

Crystal clear natural springs and biodiverse forests with endemic species make this a fun state to visit, just not so much during the muggy and buggy summers

9. Oregon

Deschutes, Fremont, Malheur, Mt. Hood, Ochoco, Rogue River, Siuslaw, Umpqua, Willamette, Winema, Siskiyou, Wallowa, Whitman, and Umatilla National Forests

17,314,842 acres (15,555,804 federal/ 1,759,038 other)

From sand dunes on the Pacific Ocean to Cascade Range stratovolcanoes, from countless waterfalls to dry hillsides above the Columbia and Snake Rivers

8. Alabama

Conecuh, Talladega, Tuskegee, and William B. Bankhead National Forests

1,288,521 (670,983 federal/ 617,538 other)

A state with surprisingly great backpacking opportunities and long trails through pine and hardwood forests

7. Alaska

Chugach and Tongass National Forests

24,359,118 (21,956,783 federal/ 2,402,335 other)

Some of the most rugged terrain in America is found in these temperate rainforests on the Pacific Coast

6. Utah

Ashley, Cache, Dixie, Fishlake, La Sal, Manti, Sawtooth, Uinta, and Wasatch National Forests

9,157,444 acres (8,152,640 federal/ 1,004,804 other)

Alpine peaks and red rock beauty stretch from the northern border to the south

5. Kentucky

Daniel Boone National Forest and Land Between The Lakes National Recreation Area

2,153,550 (813,138 federal/ 1,340,412 other)

Bison herds, sandstone arches, waterfalls, and caves await in the forested hills of Kentucky

4. Wyoming

Bighorn, Bridger, Medicine Bow, Shoshone, and Teton National Forests

9,123,212 acres (8,694,111 federal/ 429,101 other)

Our favorite places to backpack in the world are all in our home state of Wyoming

3. Arizona (Click here to view our 7-Day Road Trip Itinerary)

Apache, Coconino, Coro n ado, Kaibab, Prescott, Sitgreaves, and Tonto National Forests

11,891,457 acres (11,264,619 federal/ 626,838 other)

Sky Islands that rise above the Sonoran Desert, the red rocks of Sedona, and extensive conifer forests

2. Washington

Colville, Gifford Pinchot, Mt. Baker, Okanogan, Olympic, Snoqualmie, and Wenatchee National Forests

10,109,600 acres (9,287,525 federal/ 822,075 other)

Glacier-clad peaks and beautiful lakes abound in the soggy and scenic Pacific Northwest

…and finally our #1 state for National Forests:

1. California

Angeles, Cleveland, Eldorado, Inyo, Klamath, Lassen, Los Padres, Mendocino, Modoc, Plumas, San Bernardino, Sequoia, Shasta, Sierra, Six Rivers, Stanislaus, Tahoe, Toiyabe, and Trinity National Forests

24,266,631 acres (20,790,923 federal/ 3,475,708 other)

Incredible endemic tree species like giant sequoia and coast redwood make these 19 National Forests the most biodiverse in America

Honorable Mentions

Colorado

Arapaho, Grand Mesa, Gunnison, Pike, Rio Grande, Roosevelt, Routt, San Isabel, San Juan, Uncompahgre, and White River National Forests

15,339,248 acres (13,884,722 federal/ 1,454,526 other)

There is a short summer season to hike in Colorado’s mountains, but ski resorts and snowshoes open up the country in the winter

Michigan

Hiawatha, Huron, Manistee, and Ottawa National Forests

4,880,281 acres (2,866,752 federal/ 2,013,529 other)

Lighthouses on three Great Lakes, plus wonderful waterfalls, sand dunes, and hiking trails

Idaho (Click here to view our 7-Day Road Trip Itinerary)

Boise, Caribou, Challis, Clearwater, Idaho Panhandle (Coeur d’Alene, Kaniksu, St. Joe), Nez Perce, Payette, Salmon, Sawtooth, and Targhee National Forests

21,582,915 acres (20,416,960 federal/ 1,165,955 other)

Worth including if only for stunning Sawtooth National Recreation Area and the massive Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness

New Hampshire

White Mountain National Forest

828,356 acres (735,823 federal/ 92,533 other)

Only one National Forest in New Hampshire, but one of the few that could easily be a National Park

Puerto Rico

El Yunque National Forest

56,097 acres (28,434 federal/ 27,663 other)

Puerto Rico is not technically a state, but the only tropical rainforest in the National Forest system deserves recognition

Massachusetts

Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site

August 2, 2023 Raven About The Parks 1 Comment

Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site

Massachusetts

Managed by National Park Service

Established 1969

8.5 acres

Website: nps.gov/sair

Overview

Situated in the middle of the town of Saugus, this interesting little park preserves North America’s first integrated iron works dating back to 1646. The site was chosen because of access to local bog iron, gabbro, ample trees for making charcoal, and the Saugus River for providing power and shipping. Molten iron was poured into long sow bars that were forged into wrought iron, some of which went into a rolling and slitting mill that provided material for easily producing nails. In addition to cast products like pots, other items made include hinges, hoes, shovels, kettle hooks, and tongs. In the 1660s, bankruptcy led skilled iron workers (mostly indentured servants) from here to start mills throughout New England. Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site is part of Essex Saugus National Heritage Area, along with Salem Maritime National Historic Site in northeast Massachusetts.

Highlights

Saugus River, blast furnace, forge, Iron Works House, free mushed penny machine

Must-Do Activity

Start your visit in the National Park Service (NPS) museum located in the former chicken coop and blacksmith shop, where a 12-minute video is played. Do not forget to crush your own penny in the only free coin-smashing machine we have encountered at a NPS site. Rangers offer tours throughout the day or a self-guided tour takes you to a blast furnace, forge, rolling mill, warehouse, and dock area on the Saugus River. The Iron Works House is a 1680s mansion containing period furnishings and is the only original building left standing. Other structures were rebuilt in the 1950s by the First Iron Works Association funded by the American Iron and Steel Institute.

Best Trail

A half-mile nature trail follows along the banks of the Saugus River.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Huge bellows made of wood and leather provided a steady blast of air to maintain the high temperature required to smelt ore into molten iron.

Peak Season

Summer

Hours

https://www.nps.gov/sair/planyourvisit/basicinfo.htm

Fees

None

Road Conditions

All roads are paved to the small parking lot.

Camping

Harold Parker State Forest offers 130 campsites about 13 miles to the northwest.

Salem Maritime National Historic Site (Massachusetts)

Springfield Armory National Historic Site (Massachusetts)

Explore More – How heavy was the cast iron hammer head used in the forge and lifted by the waterwheel?

Oregon

Fremont National Forest

July 26, 2023 Raven About The Parks 4 Comments

Fremont National Forest

Oregon

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Pacific Northwest Region

1,713,891 acres (1,207,039 federal/ 506,852 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/fremont-winema

Overview

In central Oregon, the sagebrush-dominated high desert is also known as the Oregon Outback because of its rural resemblance to the arid Australian bush. Fremont National Forest encompasses the wooded mountains that rise to the west above Lake Abert and Summer Lake in the Warner Valley, an important wetland area for wildlife. In addition, a separate section located to the southeast covers the Warner Mountains and Abert Rim. The cliffs of Hadley Butte are popular with hang gliders. The Mitchell Monument honors the six American civilians who lost their lives during World War II when a Japanese balloon bomb exploded after traveling 6,000 miles.

Highlights

Oregon Outback Scenic Byway, Goodlow Mountain Natural Area, Drake Peak Lookout, North Warner Viewpoint, Abert Rim, Heart Lake, North Fork of Sprague National Wild and Scenic River, Mitchell Monument, Cottonwood Lake, Crane Mountain National Recreation Trail, Fremont National Recreation Trail, Gearhart Mountain Trail

Must-Do Activity

While it is not an official trail, the 4.6-mile out-and-back hike to Coleman Rim does have a good payoff with views of the Chewaucan River Valley. It is reached by driving nine miles up paved Forest Road 3360 from Highway 140, then turning right for two miles on gravel Forest Road 024 to Shepard Camp Creek. From there, you start hiking north to the head of Shepard Camp Meadow, while watching for black-tailed deer, sandhill cranes, and the numerous cattle that frequent this area. At that point, the route starts to gain elevation as it turns east through a forest of ponderosa pine, Sierra white fir, and western white pine trees. You will likely have to climb over a few downed trees as you navigate toward the rocky Coleman Rim that sits above 7,000 feet in elevation.

Best Trail

After the Bootleg Fire swept through the area between our 2020 and 2022 visits, it was amazing to see the differences around Gearhart Mountain. We drove as far up the mountain as we could to Lookout Rock Trailhead, parking at the edge of the Gearhart Mountain Wilderness, walking up the gated road to a fire lookout tower that remained unburnt on its rocky ridgetop. It was difficult to the follow the official Gearhart Mountain trail because of downed trees and the blanket of dead needles on the forest floor, but it was worth a look around to see the fire’s aftermath (please exercise caution due to the hazards of standing dead trees). The trail accesses the volcanic Palisade Rocks within one mile from the trailhead.

Watchable Wildlife

Mule deer, elk, and pronghorns are large ungulates found in Fremont National Forest, sharing habitat with carnivores like black bears, coyotes, mountain lions, and bobcats. The National Forest borders Summer Lake and several large wetlands that are important stops for migrating birds on the Pacific Flyway. Commonly seen waterfowl are Canada geese, mallards, and whistling swans, and the elusive northern spotted owl nests in old-growth forests. There are largemouth bass in the lakes, while streams support several species of trout, including the threatened bull trout.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Nearly 10,000 Fugo balloons were launched by the Japanese during World War II, but only one caused casualties, killing six American civilians when it exploded on May 5, 1945. At the Mitchell Monument, you can read their story and see a ponderosa pine tree that still contains shrapnel from the balloon bomb.

Peak Season

Summer

Fees

None

Road Conditions

Paved Highway 140 runs east-west through the heart of the National Forest, while Highway 395 splits a separate southeastern section on the California border. We found unpaved Forest Road 34 to be full of potholes, but it got better the further east we went towards the Mitchell Monument and Gearhart Mountain. Even after the 2021 fire, we found Forest Road 3660 to the Coleman Rim to be a good gravel road, while Forest Road 024 was a bit overgrown.

Camping

This is a good National Forest for dispersed camping, but we also passed Corral Creek Campground on our way up to Gearhart Mountain and Cottonwood Recreation Area offers a campground on a lake. Rentals are available in the summer for the Drake Peak Lookout, Currier Guard Station, and Bald Butte Lookout.

Wilderness Areas

Gearhart Mountain Wilderness

Related Sites

Deschutes National Forest (Oregon)

Winema National Forest (Oregon)

Newberry National Volcanic Monument (Oregon)

Nearest National Park

Crater Lake

Conifer Tree Species

ponderosa pine, western white pine, lodgepole pine, Douglas-fir, Engelmann spruce, white fir, western juniper

Flowering Tree Species

quaking aspen, curlleaf mountain-mahogany, willow, sagebrush

Explore More – The National Forest is named after John C. Fremont who explored this area for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and went on to take control of the California Republic (for which he was convicted of mutiny and later pardoned), serve as a U.S. Senator, run twice for President, and then resign while Governor of what U.S. territory?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods

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Kansas

Cimarron National Grassland

July 19, 2023 Raven About The Parks 2 Comments

Cimarron National Grassland

Kansas

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Region

116,319 acres (108,176 federal/ 8,143 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/psicc

Overview

Following the devastating “Dust Bowl,” several Congressional Acts in the 1930s allowed the federal government to purchase and restore damaged agricultural lands in the Great Plains. Most of the 20 National Grasslands have their origin in these times, which is why they are often a patchwork of federal and private ownership. Cimarron National Grassland is no exception, although its fairly contiguous swath of government land in the southwest corner of Kansas represents the largest parcel of public land in the entire state. Today recreation is one of the multiple uses of this landscape, that also includes cattle grazing and oil/gas drilling. There are 200 stock ponds here (a few stocked with gamefish), plus the Cimarron River, which even when appearing dry often flows a foot below the surface. Cimarron is a Spanish word for a feral horse, like an American mustang.

Highlights

Point of Rocks, Cimarron Overlook, Middle Spring, Cottonwood Picnic Area, Cimarron Recreation Area, Turkey Trail, Companion Trail, Santa Fe National Historic Trail

Must-Do Activity

Point of Rocks is the third-highest point in Kansas and was a major landmark on the Cimarron Route of the Santa Fe National Historic Trail that later became a permanent settlement. There are no buildings left here, but the parking lot offers interpretive signs and a great view across the Cimarron River. A steep trail from the top accesses the Companion Trail that parallels the Santa Fe National Historic Trail for 19 miles through the National Grassland. A mile back towards Highway 27, Middle Spring is on the National Register of Historic Places as one of only three reliable water sources along the Cimarron Route.

Best Trail

The Turkey Trail is open to OHVs and connects 10.5 miles from Cottonwood Picnic Area to Cimarron Recreation Area, where the Cimarron River Trail continues east for another ten miles or so.

Watchable Wildlife

Cimarron National Grassland is one of the best places in Kansas for birdwatching with more than 360 species identified. There are two lesser prairie-chicken leks with permanent blinds set up for watching spring mating rituals. During our short visit we spotted ravens, turkey vultures, shrikes, redwing blackbirds, mourning doves, meadowlarks, red-headed woodpeckers, barn swallows, kingbirds, Bullock’s orioles, canvasbacks, and some variety of hawk. Based on the signs there are also mountain plovers and burrowing owls, which inhabit the burrows of prairie dogs and can imitate the sound of a prairie rattlesnake. When we arrived at the smoke-obscured overlook for Point of Rocks we startled a group of four mule deer, and we also read that elk were reintroduced here at one point.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Cottonwood Picnic Area is fenced off from river access, but it has picnic tables and a playground with old-school equipment like teeter-totters. There is also a fun table with metal seats from old tractors and two old tractors unearthed in 2003 after being buried to stabilize the river bank following floods in the 1930s.

Peak Season

Spring

Fees

None

Road Conditions

Paved Highway 27 cuts north-south through the National Grassland bisecting the unpaved Sea of Grass Auto Tour, which we found to be in good shape at least for the three miles to Point of Rocks.

Camping

Cimarron Recreation Area offers 14 campsites, fishing ponds, and a corral for horses, plus dispersed camping is allowed in most of the National Grassland.

Fort Larned National Historic Site (Kansas)

Nicodemus National Historic Site (Kansas)

Nearest National Park

Great Sand Dunes

Explore More – Passed in 1937, what Congressional Act requires 25% of revenue generated by the National Grasslands to be returned to the county for schools and roads?

Black Kettle National Grassland

Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site

Fremont National Forest

Cimarron National Grassland

Start your U.S. National Forests, National Parks, and National Monuments adventure here!