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Wyoming

Thunder Basin National Grassland

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Thunder Basin National Grassland

Wyoming

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Region

547,499 acres

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/r02/mbrtb/recreation/thunder-basin-national-grassland-0

Overview

Thunder Basin is part of the Powder River Basin situated between the Big Horn Mountains and the Black Hills.  Elevations in the National Grassland range from 3,600 to 5,200 feet in the transition zone between the Great Plains and sagebrush steppe.  It was established in 1960 and is currently managed along with Routt and Medicine Bow National Forests.  Its acreage is interspersed with private inholdings and areas run by the Bureau of Land Management.

Highlights

Weston Recreation Area, Soda Well Picnic Site, reservoirs

Must-Do Activity

Although Thunder Basin National Grassland is mostly undeveloped for tourists, Weston Recreation Area is located 30 miles north of Gillette off Highway 59 with at least 15 miles of Off-Highway Vehicle (OHV) trails.  Fishing for warm water species like smallmouth bass and bluegill is possible at the following reservoirs: East Iron Creek, Kellogg, Little Powder, Little Thunder, Turner, and Weston (where there is a vault toilet).  There is a picnic shelter at Soda Well, site of the ghost town of Weston, Wyoming. 

Best Trail

The East Upton Trailhead and Kellogg Trailhead are both located in the northeastern-most corner of the National Grassland about two miles north of Upton.  Generally, it is possible to hike cross-country wearing sturdy boots to avoid hidden prickly pear and hedgehog cacti.  Be sure to wear bright colors during the various hunting seasons.

Watchable Wildlife

On our March visit to Thunder Basin National Grassland, we saw pronghorn, elk, and mule deer out grazing on the prairie.  Small rodents are prevalent, including white-tailed jackrabbits, cottontail rabbits, kangaroo rats, thirteen-lined ground squirrels, and black-tailed prairie dogs, a keystone species whose burrows create habitat for burrowing owls, prairie rattlesnakes, mountain plovers, and endangered black-footed ferrets.  Predatory mammals found here include the swift fox, red fox, badger, and coyote.   Sagebrush cover may support sage grouse, a species of management concern.

Photographic Opportunity

Early spring is a great time to visit to see large ungulates before they migrate to higher elevations and to hear the first mating calls of meadowlarks.

Peak Season

Spring

Fees

None

Road Conditions

The unpaved roads we drove were graded and accessible to passenger vehicles, but that is probably not the case when they are wet.

Camping

There are no developed campgrounds in this National Grassland, but dispersed camping is allowed on public land so use the app or get a good map to make sure you are not on the private land parcels interspersed throughout.  The Forest Service website recommends camping along Forest Road 1246. 

Related Sites

Devils Tower National Monument (Wyoming)

Black Hills National Forest (South Dakota)

Jewel Cave National Monument (South Dakota)

Nearest National Park

Wind Cave

Explore More – In 2017, what infectious bacterial disease impacted 25,000 acres of prairie dog towns in the area?

Missouri

Mark Twain National Forest

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Mark Twain National Forest

Missouri

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Eastern Region

3,012,464 acres (1,491,840 federal/ 1,520,624 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/r09/marktwain

Overview

In the 1970s, the more northerly Clark National Forest in Missouri was administratively combined with Mark Twain National Forest, encompassing 11% of the state’s forests across 29 counties.  Much of the forest was planted by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), with their work still visible at the Rolla Ranger Station and Winona Ranger Station Historic Districts.  Spread across nine separate units throughout southern Missouri’s Ozark Mountains, Mark Twain National Forest’s Karst topography is full of caves, sinkholes, streams, and springs.  Greer Spring is the second largest in Missouri with a daily flow of 222-million gallons as it drains 1.25 miles into the Eleven Point National Scenic River.  Greer Spring is accessible by a one-mile trail downhill from Highway 19, but no fishing or wading is allowed.

Highlights

Glade Top Trail Scenic Byway, Blue Buck Knob Scenic Byway, Greer Spring, Table Rock Lake, Council Bluff Recreation Area, Overcup Oak Sink, Silver Mine Recreation Area, Bellevue Trail, Cedar Creek Trail, Devil’s Backbone Trail, Ridge Runner National Recreation Trail, Big Piney Trail, Ozark Trail

Must-Do Activity

Most trails in Mark Twain National Forest are open to hikers, mountain bikers, and equestrians, including Ridge Runner National Recreation Trail that totals 33 miles.  Two areas at Chadwick and Sutton Bluff are designated for ATV, UTV, and motorcycle use.  Fishing is a popular activity on the Eleven Point National Scenic River and numerous lakes, like Noblett Lake and Table Rock Lake.  There are so many recreation areas spread around this massive National Forest, it is impossible to cover them all here.  We recommend you start with one of the spots listed under Highlights above.

Best Trail

Mark Twain National Forest has several long trails that explore its 78,000 acres of Wilderness areas, including sections of the 350-mile Ozark Trail.  Northeast of Branson, Hercules-Glades Wilderness protects 12,413 acres of forested hillsides, limestone outcroppings, and glades of native grasses.  There are three trailheads on the edge of the Wilderness, but we chose Blair Ridge because of its paved access 5.3 miles off Highway 160.  From a small roadside parking area, the trail follows a ridgeline for 1.2 miles to some excellent backpacking campsites that overlook the countryside before it drops 600 feet in the next mile.  At that point the trail intersects with Coy Bald Trail, which can be taken a short distance to a small scenic waterfall on Long Creek.

Watchable Wildlife

The Ozark Mountains provide habitat for common eastern species like white-tailed deer, wild turkeys, gray squirrels, cottontail rabbits, red foxes, and raccoons.  You may also encounter venomous copperheads, timber rattlesnakes, and pygmy rattlesnakes.  The oak savannahs are home to several endemic plants, as well as prickly pear cacti and animals more associated with the Southwest U.S., like roadrunners, collared lizards, scorpions, and tarantulas.  Gamefish include smallmouth bass, largemouth bass, rock bass, walleye, and rainbow trout.

Photographic Opportunity

Between Jefferson City and Columbia, Pine Ridge Recreation Area accesses Cedar Creek Trail, which has multiple trailheads and four loops totaling 36 miles.

Peak Season

Spring and fall

Fees

There are day use fees at several sites, including $5 at Noblett Lake and $2 at Blue Hole Trailhead and North Fork Recreation Area

Road Conditions

Many of the curvy back roads in Mark Twain National Forest are paved, such as Blair Ridge that led to a trailhead 5.3 miles off Highway 160.  There are likely some rough unpaved roads in the Ozarks, so check road conditions before departing.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds in Mark Twain National Forest, although it can be harder to find good dispersed campsites due to the proximity to private land.  In the northernmost area outside Columbia, we paid to camp in the quiet Pine Ridge Recreation Area.  On the edge of the Hercules-Glades Wilderness at the Hercules Tower (with restrooms) and Coy Bald Trailheads, there are a handful of car camping sites for free. 

Wilderness Areas

Bell Mountain Wilderness

Devils Backbone Wilderness

Hercules-Glades Wilderness

Irish Wilderness

Paddy Creek Wilderness

Piney Creek Wilderness

Rockpile Mountain Wilderness

Related Sites

Ozark National Scenic Riverways (Missouri)

George Washington Carver National Monument (Missouri)

Ozark National Forest (Arkansas)

Nearest National Park

Gateway Arch

Conifer Tree Species

shortleaf pine, eastern redcedar

Flowering Tree Species

sweetgum, water tupelo, sugar maple, red maple, boxelder, honeylocust, Ohio buckeye, red buckeye, black cherry, sassafras, persimmon, Kentucky coffee tree, black gum, blackjack oak, Nuttall oak, overcup oak, white oak, black oak, scarlet oak, post oak, black hickory, shagbark hickory, mockernut hickory, bitternut hickory, brookside alder

Explore More – Mark Twain National Forest’s Greer Spring is the second largest natural spring in Missouri, so which one is in first place?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods

New York

Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site

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Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site

New York

Managed by National Park Service

Established 1940

211 acres

Website: nps.gov/vama

Overview

The Gilded Age is the term referring to the period from the Civil War to the end of the century, a time of growth in industry and immigration.  Gilding is the process of putting a thin layer of gold on an object to improve its appearance and was used as a slight to the nouveau riche families that built lavish mansions and threw extravagant parties.  Shipping and railroad tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt’s grandson Frederick purchased this 600-acre Hyde Park estate in 1895.  He and his wife Louise had the mansion there torn down and it took nearly four years to complete their 54-room mansion ornamented in beaux arts style.  It was the first in the area to have electricity, which was supplied by its own hydroelectric plant.  It was inhabited by the family only in the spring and fall with as many as 60 staff needed to run the place.  When Louise’s niece could not sell the property during the Great Depression, her neighbor President Franklin D. Roosevelt suggested she donate it to the National Park Service. 

Highlights

Mansion, Pavilion, Formal Gardens, Hyde Park Trail

Must-Do Activity

The only way inside the mansion is on a one-hour guided tour that does not take reservations.  They can be purchased at the visitor center inside The Pavilion, a guest house built in 66 days in 1895.  The grounds are free to explore, where you can walk on the carriage roads, picnic at the overlook, and peruse the Italian gardens.  The mansion was designed by the leading architectural firm McKim, Mead & White, known for their emphasis on high classicism.  It features a large living room, grand staircase, and semicircular portico overlooking the Hudson River and Catskill Mountains.  The house cost $660,000 at the time, while the interior furnishings pushed the total cost to $2.3-million (equivalent to about $90-million today) since many of the decorations were purchased in Europe.

Best Trail

Vanderbilt Service Road Trail loops through this 211-acre site and Bard Rock Road Trail splits off to a point on the Hudson River.  Hyde Park Trail follows the river south to connect with the Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site and Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site. 

Photographic Opportunity

The landscape design (and a ginkgo tree) on the property dates back to the 1700s, while its current look was restored to its 1930s appearance.

Peak Season

Summer

Hours

https://nps.gov/vama/planyourvisit/hours.htm

Fees

$15 per person for the mansion tour or use the annual America the Beautiful pass

Road Conditions

Parking and access roads are paved from the Albany Post Road (Highway 9). 

Camping

Mills-Norrie State Park is located 3.5 miles north on Highway 9 and has a campground offering running water and hot showers. 

Related Sites

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site (New York)

Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site (New York)

Martin Van Buren National Historic Site (New York)

Nearest National Park

Shenandoah

The Pavilion
Bald eagle

Explore More – Who were the authors who coined the term “Gilded Age” in their 1873 book?

Utah

Manti National Forest

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Manti National Forest

Utah

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Intermountain Region

735,358 acres

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/r04/manti-lasal

Overview

Manti Forest Reserve dates back to 1903, becoming a National Forest four years later and expanded in 1915 with the addition of Nebo National Forest.  Despite being separated by more than 100 miles, Manti and La Sal National Forests were combined in 1949, an early example of improved bureaucratic efficiency by the Forest Service.  Due to this longstanding association, it can be difficult to find information for the more northerly Manti National Forest alone.  Manti National Forest covers much of the Wasatch Plateau and also manages the busy Maple Canyon Trail system (technically in Uinta National Forest).

Highlights

Energy Loop, Skyline, Eccles Canyon, Drive Scenic Backway, Stuart Guard Station National Historic Site, Electric Lake, Nelson Mountain, Maple Canyon, Fish Creek National Recreation Trail, Left Fork of Huntington Creek National Recreation Trail

Must-Do Activity

Many visitors to Manti National Forest drive the Energy Loop, named for Utah’s coal country, which partially follows the paved Huntington and Eccles Canyons Scenic Byway.  Campgrounds, historic sites, reservoirs, trails, and trout streams are all accessible along the 86-mile drive.  The more adventurous can take on the unpaved Skyline Drive Scenic Backway that climbs the Wasatch Plateau.  This 58-mile route has many side roads popular with ATV and OHV drivers, and it is open to snowmobiles in the winter. 

Best Trail

Easily accessible from the Energy Loop drive, the six-mile long Left Fork of Huntington Creek National Recreation Trail follows the canyon gaining 847 feet in elevation.  It can be completed one-way downhill from Miller Flat Trailhead by leaving a vehicle at Forks of Huntington Campground.  Despite a wildfire on the south canyon wall and subsequent erosion, the creek remains a good fishing spot, especially the lower half-mile that has interpretive signs on hydrology for children.  The trail can also be joined with Horse Canyon, Scad Valley, and Mill Canyon Trails to form longer loops, but a vehicle shuttle would still be necessary to avoid walking the highway.  Nearby, Fish Creek National Recreation Trail is ten miles long and open to travel by foot, horse, and bicycle.

Watchable Wildlife

The Wasatch Plateau rises from 5,000 to over 10,000 feet in elevation, and its vertical escarpments and subalpine lakes support a diversity of habitats.  Huntington Creek is one of the premiere fly-fishing streams in Utah.  Joe’s Valley is a 1,200-acre reservoir that offers fishing for splake, and allows motor boats (as does Electric Lake).  Large mammals found here include black bears, mountain lions, bobcats, coyotes, elk, mule deer, and pronghorns.  Birds of Manti National Forest include bald eagles, golden eagles, northern goshawks, turkey vultures, wild turkeys, common ravens, and various species of owls and woodpeckers. 

Photographic Opportunity

Fremont cottonwood trees are named for explorer John C. Fremont and this riparian species is an indicator of permanent subsurface water, with trunks that can reach more than four feet in diameter.

Peak Season

Spring and fall

Fees

None

Road Conditions

The Huntington and Eccles Canyons Scenic Byway is paved, but the Skyline Drive Scenic Backway is not.  Check the Forest Service website for updates on road conditions and closures. 

Camping

There are several designated campgrounds along Huntington and Eccles Canyons Scenic Byway, plus dispersed camping is allowed along most of the unpaved roads.  Maple Canyon Campground is a popular destination with online reservations available May through October.

Wilderness Areas

None

Related Sites

Fishlake National Forest (Utah)

La Sal National Forest (Utah)

Timpanogos Cave National Monument (Utah)

Nearest National Park

Capitol Reef

Conifer Tree Species

subalpine fir, white fir, Engelmann spruce, Douglas-fir, ponderosa pine, limber pine, Rocky Mountain juniper

Flowering Tree Species

Fremont cottonwood, quaking aspen, manzanita, sagebrush

Explore More – In 1849, Brigham Young sent 225 settlers to the San Pitch (now Sanpete) Valley; where did they get the name Manti?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods

Michigan

Manistee National Forest

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Manistee National Forest

Michigan

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Eastern Region

1,331,673 acres (540,322 federal/ 791,351 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/r09/huron-manistee

Overview

Even though they are on opposite sides of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula, Manistee and Huron National Forests have been co-managed since 1945.  Only seven years earlier, Manistee National Forest was created from tax-forfeited lands and purchases of logged forests unsuitable for farming, so it is remains a mosaic of private and public lands.  Much of this area was replanted by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) and many of those trees are now very large.  It contains the highest point on Michigan’s Lower Peninsula, 1,706-foot Briar Hill, which has no marked trails to the summit and obstructed views from the top.  It is also home to Caberfae Peaks Ski Resort, which receives high accumulations of lake-effect snow and is one of the oldest ski resorts in the U.S. opened in 1938. 

Highlights

Pere Marquette National Scenic River, Nordhouse Dunes, Newaygo Prairies, Caberfae Winter Sports Area, Udell Rollways, Briar Hill, Manistee River Trail, North Country National Scenic Trail

Must-Do Activity

Manistee National Forest is popular for hiking, fishing, camping, boating, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and hunting.  The National Forest’s primary visitor attractions are the Nordhouse Dunes along Lake Michigan and Loda Lake National Wildflower Sanctuary, a 1,000-acre area set aside in 1938 to grow native plants.  The 6,270-acre sand dunes complex around Big Sable Point on Lake Michigan was formed 3,500 years ago and reaches 140 feet in height above lake level.  The southern portion is contained within Ludington State Park and the northern half is managed by the Forest Service. 

Best Trail

We accessed the Nordhouse Dunes from the Arrowhead Trailhead (fee), nine miles on paved West Forest Trail Road from Highway 31.  We hiked a 2.7-mile loop by connecting the Middle Trail to the Arrowhead/ Nipissing Trail then following the shoreline back.  We passed dozens of backpackers camping on the beach, mostly ignoring the requirement to stay 400 feet from Lake Michigan and 100 feet from trails.  The North Country National Scenic Trail passes through Manistee National Forest and can be connected with the 11-mile-long Manistee River Trail to make a 23-mile loop.

Watchable Wildlife

The Nordhouse Dunes encompass the largest area of freshwater interdunal ponds in the world, home to the federally endangered pitcher’s thistle.  On the Lake Michigan shoreline, the dune grass provides habitat for endangered piping plovers.  More common species are white-tailed deer, coyote, red fox, porcupine, and raccoon, and the occasional black bear and bobcat.  A variety of gamefish are found in the Manistee River, Lake Michigan, and smaller ponds.

Photographic Opportunity

The rows of trees in the red pine plantations make for some interesting photographic subjects.

Peak Season

Summer

Fees

There is a $5 day use fee (or $15 for a week) to park at trailheads for the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness with automated fee collection station available at Nurnberg Trailhead, or you can hang an America the Beautiful pass in your vehicle.

Road Conditions

The main roads are paved from Highway 31 to access the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness; Nurnberg Trailhead in the southeast corner is open year round and Lake Michigan Recreation Area in the north is gated in the offseason. 

Camping

There is a 102-site campground near the trailhead within Lake Michigan Recreation Area, but dispersed car camping is allowed to the east on the sandy side roads off West Forest Trail Road.  It seems that backpackers in the Nordhouse Dunes area ignore the requirement to stay 400 feet from the lake and 100 feet from trails. 

Wilderness Areas

Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness

Related Sites

Huron National Forest (Michigan)

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (Michigan)

River Raisin National Battlefield Park (Michigan)

Nearest National Park

Indiana Dunes

Conifer Tree Species

red pine, jack pine, eastern white pine, eastern hemlock, arborvitae, tamarack, black spruce

Flowering Tree Species

northern red oak, black oak, white oak, red maple, paper birch, yellow birch, American beech, black cherry, green ash, bigtooth aspen, sassafras, witch hazel    

Explore More – How is the Ojibwe word Manistee translated into English?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods