Gunnison National Forest surrounds the town of Crested Butte, a prime destination for mountain bikers and winter sports enthusiasts. It also shares mountainous borders and four of its eight designated Wilderness areas with neighboring Rio Grande, San Isabel, Uncompahgre, and White River National Forests. It was originally called the Cochetopa Forest Reserve, created by President Teddy Roosevelt on June 13, 1905. It is now co-managed with the Grand Mesa and Uncompahgre National Forests.
Highlights
Silver Thread Scenic Byway, Slumgullion Slide, Mt. Emmons Iron Bog, Taylor Park Reservoir, San Luis Peak, Fossil Ridge Recreation Area, Gothic Research Natural Area, Judd Falls, Alpine Tunnel, Mineral Creek Trail
Must-Do Activity
Much of the area was mined in the past, so there are many miles of four-wheel-drive roads to explore over mountain passes like Tomichi, Hancock, Taylor, Tincup, and Pearl Pass. Near the Victorian-era town of Lake City, the famous Slumgullion Slide crosses Highway 149 where a massive earth flow created Lake San Cristobal about 700 years ago. Visible from a pullout at Windy Point, a secondary flow of sludgy montmorillonite continues to move trees downslope to this day.
Best Trail
Just past the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) recreation site at Needle Rock, a gravel road enters Gunnison National Forest where two trailheads afford entrance into the West Elk Wilderness. Throughline Trail heads northeast toward 12,719-foot Mt. Gunnison, but it can be connected with the Lone Pine Trail at the 3.5-mile point to form a loop with Sink Creek Trail (a total of 13 miles roundtrip). We hiked a portion of Sink Creek Trail in late September when the aspen trees were changing colors and found a nice place for dispersed camping near the South Smith Fork Trailhead (high-clearance vehicle recommended).
Watchable Wildlife
There are presumably elk in the mountainous West Elk Wilderness, as well as mule deer and bighorn sheep (a herd overwinters near the junction of the East and Taylor Rivers). Mountain lions, black bears, and pine martens also inhabit Gunnison National Forest. On our hikes we came across a gopher snake and a dam built by a beaver. Watch the skies for raptors like golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, and peregrine falcons.
Instagram-worthy Photo
A good gravel road east of Crawford leads into Gunnison National Forest past Needle Rock Outstanding Natural Area, run by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The landmark is a 28-million-year-old volcanic plug which can be explored on a steep trail that does not completely circle it because of private land.
Peak Season
Summer and fall
Fees
None
Road Conditions
Several paved highways crisscross the National Forest, including a stretch of the Silver Thread Scenic Byway. Not every back road requires a high-clearance vehicle, as good graded roads go over Kebler Pass, Ohio Pass, and Cumberland Pass into the town of Pitkin. Popular four-wheel-drive routes include Pearl Pass Road, Old Monarch Pass Road, and Schofield Pass north into Crystal Canyon.
Camping
There are many nice campgrounds in Gunnison National Forest, including Slumgullion Campground at 11,200 feet, Lost Lake Campground next to a wildflower meadow, and Dorchester Campground on the road to 11,928-foot Taylor Pass (accessible by four-wheel-drive vehicles). Dispersed camping is also allowed throughout the National Forest; we found a nice spot near the South Smith Fork Trailhead (high-clearance vehicle recommended).
Wilderness Areas
Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area (also in San Isabel National Forest)
Fossil Ridge Wilderness
La Garita Wilderness (also in Rio Grande National Forest)
Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness (also in White River and San Isabel National Forests)
Powderhorn Wilderness (also on BLM land)
Raggeds Wilderness (also in White River National Forest)
West Elk Wilderness
Uncompahgre Wilderness (also in Uncompahgre National Forest)
The only National Forest in Vermont is divided into a north and south section, each with its own National Recreation Area. In the north, Moosalamoo National Recreation Area has the Voter Brook Overlook and trails to the Falls of Lana and Silver Lake, which has a popular backpacking campground. In the south, Robert T. Stafford White Rocks National Recreation Area includes a portion of the historic Long Trail where the Appalachian National Scenic Trail overlaps it. Vermont literally translates as Green Mountain from French, the name of the range that forms the state’s granite backbone. Winter recreation is a big deal here, with three alpine ski areas in the National Forest and seven designated cross-country ski areas, as well as 900 miles of trails for snowshoeing and some areas open specifically for snowmobiling. Green Mountain National Forest also co-manages Finger Lakes National Forest in central New York.
Texas Falls is not located in the right place on the Forest Service visitor app, but it is easy to get to right alongside paved Texas Falls Road off State Route 125. The falls formed at the end of the Ice Age around 12,000 years ago, when meltwater scoured the quartz-chlorite schist. A footbridge crosses the Hancock Branch over an interesting glacial pothole in the rock, and a nature trail continues uphill forming a 1.2-mile loop. We did not make it to Lye Brook Falls or Moss Glen Falls, but found the off-trail Falls of Lana worth the effort (see Moosalamoo National Recreation Area).
Best Trail
Green Mountain National Forest contains about half of the 272-mile Long Trail, which in 1931 became the first named long-distance hiking trail in the U.S. In Robert T. Stafford White Rocks National Recreation Area, the Long Trail is coincident with the Appalachian National Scenic Trail (AT) with several overnight shelters (some of which charge $5 per person, per night).
Watchable Wildlife
The National Forest contains 450 miles of streams, which is great for trout and salmon fishermen, especially since some wildlife management projects have been done to improve their habitat. Other work has been completed to support ruffed grouse, wild turkey, black bear, and Bicknell’s thrush. We were told by a local that there is a black bear named Jenny that hangs out around the White Rocks Day Use Area. Additional species of interest include moose, white-tailed deer, coyote, porcupine, and beaver.
Instagram-worthy Photo
Less than a mile up the Ice Beds Trail, a short climb reaches a viewpoint of the white rocks, a glacier-scoured cliff of Cheshire quartzite that is (part of) the namesake for Robert T. Stafford White Rocks National Recreation Area.
Peak Season
Fall
Fees
Ski areas at Mount Snow, Stratton Mountain, and Bromley Mountain have recreation fees. Along the Long Trail/AT, there is a camping fee of $5 per person, per night at Little Rock Pond, Peru Peak, Stratton Pond, and Griffith Lake.
Road Conditions
All the gravel roads we drove were in good shape during the spring, including the roads to Voter Brook Overlook and White Rocks Day Use Area.
Camping
One of the most developed parts of the National Forest is at 7-acre Hapgood Pond where there is a campground, swimming beach, and boat ramp. Moosalamoo Campground has 18 campsites located at the base of the Mt. Moosalamoo Trail, near Voter Brook Overlook. There are a couple dispersed campsites also on the road, but we had one of our worst nights camping here with college kids blasting music late and another group waking us up before sunrise. The backpacking campground at Silver Lake is nice, or you can stay at Branbury State Park on Lake Dunmore.
Texas FallsTexas FallsScott’s mother on the Robert Frost Interpretive TrailWhite Rocks National Recreation AreaFalls of LanaSouth Branch of the Middlebury River
sugar maple, American beech, yellow birch, white birch, paper birch, mountain ash
Explore More – Texas Falls is located on the Hancock Branch, which feeds the White River that converges with what major river?
Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods
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White Rocks National Recreation Area is located in the southern portion of Vermont’s Green Mountain National Forest and was officially renamed Robert T. Stafford White Rocks National Recreation Area. It encompasses Big Branch Wilderness, Peru Peak Wilderness, Big Branch Observation Area, and its namesake White Rocks Picnic Area (see Must-Do Activity). A section of the Long Trail (which in 1931 became the first named long-distance hiking trail in America) passes through this area, where it coincides with the newer Appalachian National Scenic Trail (AT). Other popular activities include biking, fishing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling.
Highlights
Big Branch Observation Area, White Rocks Day Use Area, Bully Brook, Ice Beds Trail, Keewaydin Trail, White Rocks Cliffs Trail, Greenwall Shelter, Long Trail, Appalachian National Scenic Trail
Must-Do Activity
A great place to access Robert T. Stafford White Rocks National Recreation Area is the White Rocks Day Use Area off State Route 140. Several trails start from the picnic area, including a short walk to a cascading waterfall on Bully Brook. Less than a mile up the Ice Beds Trail, a short climb reaches a viewpoint of the white rocks, a glacier-scoured cliff of Cheshire quartzite, which was used by Native Americans to make tools. Continue on this trail 0.9 miles one-way to the Ice Beds where ice melts deep in a scree slope throughout the summer. You probably will not see any ice, but it is deep in the rocky recesses and releases cool drafts of air. We were told by a local that there is a black bear named Jenny that hangs out around the trailhead.
Best Trail
In 0.4 miles from White Rocks Day Use Area, Keewaydin Trail connects with the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail (AT). By going south, the trail ascends 1,250 feet to a cutoff for the Greenwall Shelter and just past there watch for a stone cairn on the right side. From there a side trail descends 0.2 miles to an overlook above the White Rock Cliffs providing views of the Adirondack and Taconic Mountains (3.8 miles roundtrip).
Instagram-worthy Photo
Visible less than a mile up the Ice Beds Trail, the white rocks are a glacier-scoured cliff of Cheshire quartzite once used by Native Americans to make tools.
Peak Season
Summer
Fees
None
Road Conditions
State Route 140 is paved, but the access road to White Rocks Day Use Area is an unpaved road passable by RVs.
Camping
Overnight shelters on the Long Trail/AT at Greenwall and Minerva Hinchey are free, while camping at Little Rock Pond, Peru Peak, Stratton Pond, and Griffith Lake requires a $5 per person, per night fee. Drive-up campgrounds are located on Forest Road 10 at Big Branch and Black Branch near the Big Branch Wilderness.
Covering 540 square-miles, Grand Mesa is the largest flattop mountain in the world and has an average elevation of 10,500 feet. It rises east of Grand Junction and is easily explored via paved Highway 65, also known as Grand Mesa Scenic Byway. Due to its high elevation, Grand Mesa National Forest is a popular destination for snowmobiles in the winter. This area was first set aside by President Harrison in 1892 as Battlement Mesa Forest Reserve, only the third such designation in U.S. history. It is now co-managed with Colorado’s Gunnison and Uncompahgre National Forests.
Highlights
Grand Mesa Scenic Byway, Land’s End Ranger Observatory, Ward Lake, Island Lake Interpretive Trail, Crag Crest National Recreation Trail, Eggleston Lake, Leon Peak, Battlement Trail
Must-Do Activity
Also covering a portion of Battlement Mesa, Grand Mesa National Forest contains more than 300 lakes, several of which have campgrounds. The Grand Mesa Visitor Center on Highway 65 near Island Lake is a great place to start, with a 20-minute film shown detailing the 1999 Land’s End archaeological excavation that found evidence of 8,000 years of human activity at 9,000 feet in elevation. Dirt roads travel east from there deeper into the National Forest, or you can take a side trip west on the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway to the visitor center at Land’s End Ranger Observatory for views all the way into Utah’s La Sal National Forest.
Best Trail
The best trail in Grand Mesa National Forest is without a doubt Crag Crest National Recreation Trail. It can be hiked as a 10.3-mile loop from two trailheads, one at Island Lake (paved access) and the other at Eggleston Lake (that requires some dirt road driving). The crest portion of the hike is the highlight as it follows a narrow ridge of volcanic rock that offers spectacular views. Due to its exposure and the high altitude (up to 11,189 feet) it is recommended that you get an early start to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. For those not wishing to do the entire loop, we found that by starting out counterclockwise from Eggleston Lake the trail climbs steeply providing panoramas within two miles. We completed five miles out-and-back with a cumulative elevation gain of 1,100 feet and felt we had gotten the full experience.
Watchable Wildlife
Trout fishing is one of the main draws to the 300 lakes in Grand Mesa National Forest. The lakes and streams also attract elk, mule deer, bighorn sheep, raccoons, red foxes, black bears, and mountain lions, in addition to large birds like bald eagles, golden eagles, peregrine falcons, common ravens, and wild turkeys. Due to its high elevation, look for pikas in the rocks along Crag Crest National Recreation Trail.
Instagram-worthy Photo
Starting counterclockwise on the Crag Crest National Recreation Trail from Eggleston Lake, we climbed to stunning panoramas within two miles.
Peak Season
Summer
Fees
None
Road Conditions
Grand Mesa Scenic Byway follows paved Highway 65 up above 10,000 feet in elevation, as well as west to Land’s End Ranger Observatory. The unpaved Land’s End Road continues switchbacking down the mesa to Highway 50, but is not recommended for vehicles more than 21 feet in length. The unpaved roads on Grand Mesa were in good shape during our June visit, but are closed in the winter.
Camping
There are campgrounds at several lakes in Grand Mesa National Forest, as well as dispersed camping options along the dirt roads.
Quaking aspenEggleston LakeCrag Crest National Recreation TrailCrag Crest National Recreation TrailCrag Crest National Recreation TrailTiff on Crag Crest National Recreation TrailScott on Crag Crest National Recreation TrailBook Cliffs from Crag Crest TrailTiff on Crag Crest National Recreation TrailPikaRaven about the forest
Explore More – Now a geological term, what does “mesa” mean in Spanish?
Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our new guidebook Out in the Woods
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Today we published our newest guidebook to all 50 states available for sale on Amazon
50 States of Great: Road Trip Guide to America is a starting point for planning a road trip of any length, covering the best of each state in 12 categories: scenic drive, State Park, museum, waterfall, roadside attraction, National Forest, campsite, and more. 50 States of Great is a culmination of our extensive travels through the United States of America seeking out well-known destinations and less-frequented spots. The goal of our book is to be useful whether you are taking a cross-country road trip or exploring your home state.
We are also giving a presentation on road tripping in the U.S.A. at the Laramie County Library in Cheyenne, Wyoming. It will be held in the Cottonwood Room (1st floor) at 7 p.m. on Tuesday, December 5, 2023. We will have all our books for sale before and after the talk and would be happy to sign them for you.
If you go to our book page on Amazon (https://amzn.to/3tZsK3K) click on the cover image to Look Inside. We have included the Introduction below and will post a sample chapter on this website tomorrow.
We love traveling in the United States of America (U.S.). We have driven hundreds-of-thousands of miles across the country while on dozens of road trips, plus three flights taken to Hawai‘i. Utilizing our expertise, we wrote this guidebook with the goal of helping readers plan a road trip to see the best of what each state has to offer. This informative book presents all 50 states in alphabetical order, with abbreviated chapters at the end on American Samoa, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands.
In our travels, we have visited every state—at least twice. We have spent the night in all 50 states. Between the two of us, we have lived in ten different states from coast to coast (Alaska, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Tennessee, and Wyoming—our current home of more than a decade). We have visited in person more than 90% of the locations mentioned in this guidebook and we are excited to see some of the ones we learned about during our research, as well as making it to the remote territories of Guam and Northern Mariana Islands. As the old saying goes: “We have not been everywhere, but it is on our list.”
In 2016, we took ten months off to celebrate the centennial of the National Park Service (NPS) by visiting a State Park and an NPS site in all 50 states. Since then, we have traveled to all 50 states again and three territories, including a special trip in 2022 just to say we finally overnighted in Rhode Island. After the COVID-19 pandemic, we completed our effort to take a hike in all 155 National Forests and all 20 National Grasslands. We are currently on quests to hike in at least one National Wildlife Refuge in every single state (19 down) and finish visiting each state capital (only two to go).
We never liked the idea that parts of the U.S. are considered “flyover country,” and not just because we prefer to drive when we travel. This book started as a way to highlight the attractions in the central U.S., then we realized we knew just as many hidden gems in the most “touristy” states. Relying on our first-hand knowledge, we selected a few must-see sites to visit in each of these 50 United States of America. [Historical note: It was not until the Civil War was fought to preserve the union in the 1860s that “these United States of America” began to be referred to as “the United States of America.”]
We created categories that focused on our areas of expertise, leaving hotels and restaurants to somebody better qualified to compare those businesses. Our categories became the headings for each state that are explained below.
Map
For each state we included an outline map with a star for the capital city and a triangle located at the high point.
Acreage
Not all states are equal in size, so we included the number of acres and the percentage of the U.S. that it covers.
Statehood
This is the year that state was admitted to the union and its number in sequence.
Capital
The city where the state capital resides is represented by a star on the map.
Population
Based on the 2020 census, we included total population and rank out of 50.
High Point
The name and elevation of the highest point in each state is listed, and its location is represented by a triangle on the map.
Name Origin
We briefly explain the often-mysterious etymology. Most state names come from the languages of American Indians, while others have European roots.
Nickname
Every state has a nickname (some of which have changed over time) and the origins of those names are sometimes convoluted.
Background
A catch-all heading that provides some history or glosses over the famous attractions to a particular state, like those in New York City or Las Vegas.
Must-Do Activity
The one place to make sure to visit if you are only going to do one thing in a given state. Our choices range from a city to walk around, an outdoor activity to do, or a general type of attraction to focus on, each of which is essential to experience the best of what that state has to offer.
Greatest National Forest
There are a few states with only one National Forest (and ten without any), which made the selection process easy, but others like California (with 19) were a real challenge to pick. For those ten states without, we chose a National Grassland, State Forest, or similar natural area. We gave equal space to all National Forests in our guidebook Out in the Woods: An Introductory Guide to America’s 155 National Forests.
National Parks
A simple list of each of the 63 National Parks that lie within that state’s border. For more information on each of these, check out our guidebook A Park to Yourself: Finding Adventure in America’s National Parks.
Best National Park Service Site
Excluding the 63 National Parks, we chose our favorite unit managed by the National Park Service from among the National Monuments, National Historic Sites, National Memorials, and other classifications.
Most Scenic Drive
States designate specific roads as “Scenic Byways,” but we did not limit our choices to the official ones. We have driven hundreds-of-thousands of miles on vacations, so we have a feel for what makes an interesting route.
#1 Roadside Attraction
There are entire websites dedicated to roadside attractions and we cannot claim to have been to even half of them. However, we try to break up our drives with interesting stops, some of which take longer to visit than others.
Unique Museum
There are thousands of museums across the U.S. covering art, science, history, and everything in between. We would not argue that these are necessarily the best museums in each state, only that they were unique enough to get our attention.
That’s So [State Name]
In our research, we came across patterns of similar attractions in a specific state or someplace exceptional that could exist only in one state. This became our catch-all heading for fun spots that did not seem to fit elsewhere.
Top State Park
All 50 states have State Parks and we have visited at least one in each state. We often highlight State Parks under other headings, but here we focus on one that stands out above the rest.
Favorite Short Hike
There are so many hiking trails and websites dedicated to them that it is often hard to choose a destination. We guarantee that if you take the trail we picked that you will get a good feel for that state.
Backpacking Destination
We love backpacking and have read more about these remote destinations than any other areas. Our experience on the East Coast is limited, but we did find at least a one-night excursion for all 50 states.
Cool Campsite
We have camped in nearly every state, but usually not in a campground. We prefer dispersed camping on public lands, like those run by the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management. Here we focused on unique spots for pitching a tent that sometimes require boating, backpacking, or riding a train (see West Virigina).
Wonderful Waterfall
Waterfalls are some of the most popular destinations for hikes and drives. However, due to topography some states are more blessed with options than others. Our choice is not always the tallest or busiest, but we think you will not be disappointed if you go.
***
For trip planners, thick guidebooks can often be overwhelming and travel websites are usually more interested selling something than providing any useful information. Our research method usually starts with reading the short descriptions found in free tourist pamphlets or book series like Off the Beaten Path, and then further investigating those places on the internet. State Parks, National Forests, and National Park Service sites typically have useful information on their websites and apps. We apologize for any out-of-date content, as there may have been significant changes to some of the attractions since 2020. A wealth of data on specific destinations and hiking trails is available free online, often with detailed directions on how to get there. Check these frequently-updated websites first before visiting anywhere in our guidebook since they can close due to various economic and natural disasters.
For each state, we selected two original photographs by the authors from a place discussed in the headings above. We limited the number of photos from National Parks and National Forests as those can be found in our other guidebooks. You might notice our stuffed animal named Wondon in a few of the photos since he has his own travel blog (WondonBuns.blogspot.com).
All illustrations are original drawings by Scott based on photographs we have taken. We selected an animal found in each state to represent it, allowing for some duplicates. Scott’s illustrations from this book are available on a variety of products on our travel website (RavenAboutTheParks.com).
We hope that 50 States of Great provides inspiration for your own explorations of the United States of America.
Adventure on!
-Scott and Tiff
Cheyenne, Wyoming
October 2023
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