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Helena National Forest

Helena National Forest

Montana

Managed by U.S. Forest Service, Northern Region

1,175,125 acres (984,558 federal/ 190,567 other)

Website: https://www.fs.usda.gov/hlcnf

Overview

Helena National Forest surrounds Montana’s capital city of Helena, encompassing several mountain ranges.  The Big Belt Mountains were the site of the of the 1949 Mann Gulch Fire, which killed 13 smokejumpers who were immortalized in Norman Maclean’s classic book Young Men and Fire (see our Top 10 Non-Fiction Books on National Forests).  There is a Mann Gulch Memorial located in Meriwether Campground.  Much of the National Forest is grassland and sagebrush, with conifer trees dominating the canyons and mountain slopes.  In the winter, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing are popular pastimes.

Highlights

Gates of the Mountains, Mann Gulch Memorial, Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center, Gypsy Lake, Crow Creek Falls, Elkhorn Mountains, Blackfoot Canyon, Red Mountain, Refrigerator Canyon, Hanging Valley National Recreation Trail, Meriwether Canyon Trail

Must-Do Activity

Meriwether Lewis named the Gates of the Mountains on July 19, 1805, and today a two-hour jet boat tour on the Missouri River details the history of the Corps of Discovery, American Indian pictographs, the Mann Gulch Fire, and the collapse of Hauser Dam.  North of Helena on Interstate 15 in Great Falls is the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center, which is run by the U.S. Forest Service.

Best Trail

Refrigerator Canyon is less than ten feet wide at its narrowest point, where towering 200-foot limestone cliffs keep it cool and breezy throughout the summer.  The trailhead is accessed by driving 12 miles of washboard road that turns left off paved York Road just after crossing near the dam that forms Hauser Lake on the Missouri River.  It is a short quarter-mile hike to reach the canyon’s pinch point that was full of rock climbers during our visit.  The route then gets steeper, gaining 1,100 feet in two miles and providing excellent mountain views.  The trail eventually levels out and continues for another seven miles past Bear Prairie in the Gates of the Mountains Wilderness.  It can be connected to the Meriwether Canyon Trail, which dead ends at the Missouri River 18 miles from the Refrigerator Canyon Trailhead.

Watchable Wildlife

Grizzly bears can be found in the Scapegoat Wilderness in the northwest part of Helena National Forest where it borders Lewis and Clark National Forest (considered part of the massive Bob Marshall Wilderness complex connecting to Glacier National Park).  Other predators include black bears, gray wolves, wolverines, ermine, mountain lions, bobcats, and Canada lynx.  River otters and beavers can be found on the Missouri River.  Grazing ungulates commonly seen are elk, moose, mule deer, and pronghorn, in addition to bighorn sheep and mountain goats at higher elevations.  Trout streams and lakes provide fishing opportunities for humans, as well as bald eagles and ospreys.

Instagram-worthy Photo

You might see rock climbers blocking narrow Refrigerator Canyon, but be sure to continue through on the steep trail for beautiful views of the Gates of the Mountains Wilderness.

Peak Season

Summer

Fees

None

Road Conditions

The washboard road back to Refrigerator Canyon was in good enough shape for our passenger vehicle.

Camping

A Mann Gulch Memorial is located in Meriwether Campground, plus there are numerous other campgrounds and dispersed campsites located throughout the National Forest’s network of unpaved roads.

Wilderness Areas

Gates of the Mountains Wilderness

Scapegoat Wilderness (also in Lewis and Clark National Forest)

Related Sites

Beaverhead National Forest (Montana)

Deerlodge National Forest (Montana)

Flathead National Forest (Montana)

Nearest National Park

Glacier

Conifer Tree Species

lodgepole pine, ponderosa pine, limber pine, whitebark pine, Rocky Mountain juniper, Douglas-fir, alpine larch, subalpine fir

Flowering Tree Species

quaking aspen, balsam poplar, narrowleaf cottonwood, Rocky Mountain maple, paper birch, willow, red-osier dogwood, choke cherry

Explore More – Before it changed its name to Helena in 1864, what was the name of the gold mining camp that became Montana’s state capital?

Learn more about this and the 154 other National Forests in our guidebook Out in the Woods

Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site

Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site

New York

Managed by National Park Service

Established 1966

1 acre

Website: nps.gov/thri

Overview

On September 6, 1901, while attending the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, New York, President William McKinley was shot by anarchist Leon Czolgosz.  Vice President Theodore Roosevelt came by the house (now demolished) where McKinley was recovering and left after being assured he would survive.  Roosevelt was hiking the highest peak in the Adirondacks when he was informed that he needed to rush back to Buffalo because the President was dying.  Rather than take the oath of office in the house where McKinley died 11 hours before Roosevelt’s arrival, he chose the residence of his friend Ansley Wilcox, which has been preserved as a National Historic Site.  Oddly, no photographs were taken at the historic event.

Highlights

Wilcox house, museum, films

Must-Do Activity

The Wilcox house dates back to 1837, when it was built as an officers’ quarters at the U.S. Army’s Poinsett Barracks.  The only way inside is on a ranger-guided tour, which you can reserve online in advance (see Fees below).  The downstairs has a small, nice museum featuring interactive exhibits, where you will watch the second of three video presentations during your 45-minute tour.  It was good enough that we added it to our Top 10 Museums Run by the National Park Service. There is an annual reenactment of the 1901 Inauguration held every September 14.

Best Trail

No trails, but you can walk the sidewalks of Delaware Avenue in downtown Buffalo and stop by the Bank of America ATM conveniently located next door. Maybe you will find a four-leaf clover like Tiff did (see photo below).

Instagram-worthy Photo

The third video is presented in a small theater upstairs about halfway through the tour and features dramatic lighting and videos highlighting the challenges facing the U.S. in the early 1900s.

Peak Season

Fall

Hours

https://www.nps.gov/thri/planyourvisit/hours.htm

Fees

$12 per adult for tour (or America the Beautiful pass and $1 online registration fee for up to 4 adults)

Road Conditions

All roads are paved and a free parking lot is located behind the house on one-way Franklin Street.

Camping

Outside Buffalo, camping is available at Darien Lake, Four Mile Creek, Joseph Davis, and Letchworth State Parks.

Related Sites

Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site (New York)

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site (New York)

Sagamore Hill National Historic Site (New York)

Check out our Top 10 Roosevelt Family NPS Sites

Explore More – When was the Wilcox house turned into a restaurant?

Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site

Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site

Massachusetts

Managed by National Park Service

Established 1969

8.5 acres

Website: nps.gov/sair

Overview

Situated in the middle of the town of Saugus, this interesting little park preserves North America’s first integrated iron works dating back to 1646.  The site was chosen because of access to local bog iron, gabbro, ample trees for making charcoal, and the Saugus River for providing power and shipping.  Molten iron was poured into long sow bars that were forged into wrought iron, some of which went into a rolling and slitting mill that provided material for easily producing nails.  In addition to cast products like pots, other items made include hinges, hoes, shovels, kettle hooks, and tongs.  In the 1660s, bankruptcy led skilled iron workers (mostly indentured servants) from here to start mills throughout New England.  Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site is part of Essex Saugus National Heritage Area, along with Salem Maritime National Historic Site in northeast Massachusetts.

Highlights

Saugus River, blast furnace, forge, Iron Works House, free mushed penny machine

Must-Do Activity

Start your visit in the National Park Service (NPS) museum located in the former chicken coop and blacksmith shop, where a 12-minute video is played.  Do not forget to crush your own penny in the only free coin-smashing machine we have encountered at a NPS site.  Rangers offer tours throughout the day or a self-guided tour takes you to a blast furnace, forge, rolling mill, warehouse, and dock area on the Saugus River.  The Iron Works House is a 1680s mansion containing period furnishings and is the only original building left standing.  Other structures were rebuilt in the 1950s by the First Iron Works Association funded by the American Iron and Steel Institute.

Best Trail

A half-mile nature trail follows along the banks of the Saugus River.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Huge bellows made of wood and leather provided a steady blast of air to maintain the high temperature required to smelt ore into molten iron.

Peak Season

Summer

Hours

https://www.nps.gov/sair/planyourvisit/basicinfo.htm

Fees

None

Road Conditions

All roads are paved to the small parking lot.

Camping

Harold Parker State Forest offers 130 campsites about 13 miles to the northwest.

Related Sites

Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site (Pennsylvania)

Salem Maritime National Historic Site (Massachusetts)

Springfield Armory National Historic Site (Massachusetts)

Explore More – How heavy was the cast iron hammer head used in the forge and lifted by the waterwheel?

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site

New York

Managed by National Park Service

Established 1944

645 acres

Website: nps.gov/hofr

Overview

In 1882, Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR) was born at Springwood, his family’s estate on the Hudson River in Hyde Park, New York.  In 1905, FDR married his distant cousin Eleanor and moved into the mansion with his mother.  FDR contracted polio in 1921 and was paralyzed from the waist down, so some changes were made to Springwood to make it more wheelchair accessible.  After FDR became President, noteworthy visitors to the house included England’s King George VI and Winston Churchill.  FDR was buried on the property in 1945 and Eleanor in 1962, in the rose garden alongside Fala, their famous Scottish terrier.  Exactly one year after his death, the mansion opened to the public.

Highlights

Springwood, FDR Presidential Library and Museum, Top Cottage, Hyde Park Trail

Must-Do Activity

Start your visit at the Henry A. Wallace Visitor and Education Center where you can purchase tickets for the tour inside the mansion (reservations recommended), the 22-minute film A Rendezvous With History, the Presidential Library and Museum (not managed by the National Park Service), and Top Cottage, which is located behind the nearby Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site.  Tours meet inside the visitor center then walk a quarter-mile to the mansion.  Top Cottage was built in 1938 and is only accessible on a guided tour in the summer, which a park ranger discouraged us from going on saying it was mostly a seminar-style discussion of world politics (Top Cottage tours were closed through at least 2022). 

Best Trail

Hyde Park Trail connects Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site with Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site following the Hudson River.  The trail then heads two miles east towards Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site and Top Cottage.

Instagram-worthy Photo

Freedom From Fear is a sculpture of a man and woman made from a section of the Berlin Wall, installed here in 1994 with a companion piece at the Winston Churchill Memorial in Fulton, Missouri.  Both were created by Edwina Sandys, Churchill’s granddaughter.

Peak Season

Summer

Hours

https://www.nps.gov/hofr/planyourvisit/hours.htm

Fees

$10 per person for mansion tour or free with America the Beautiful pass; $10 per person for Top Cottage tour with $5 off for America the Beautiful pass; separate entry fee for FDR Presidential Library and Museum

Road Conditions

All roads are paved with ample parking.

Camping

Mills-Norrie State Park has 45 campsites about five miles north of Hyde Park on Highway 9.

Related Sites

Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial (District of Columbia)

Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site (New York)

Martin Van Buren National Historic Site (New York)

Explore More – In what year was there an assassination attempt on FDR?

San Juan National Historic Site

San Juan National Historic Site

Puerto Rico

Managed by National Park Service

Established 1949

75 acres

Website: nps.gov/saju

Overview

San Juan, Puerto Rico was established in 1509 as a military outpost by Spanish conquistador Juan Ponce de León and 30 years later construction began on the Castillo San Felipe del Morro to guard San Juan Bay.  Starting in 1634, Castillo San Cristóbal was added to the east, eventually becoming the largest fortification built by Europeans in the Americas (covering 27 acres).  The city was captured by the English in 1598, but quickly abandoned due to disease and lack of provisions.  U.S. warships destroyed the fort’s lighthouse during the 1898 Spanish-American War, after which the U.S. seized Puerto Rico and Guam, gained protection over Cuba, and bought the Philippines.  The U.S. military turned over the San Juan forts to the National Park Service in 1961, and 22 years later they were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Highlights

Castillo San Felipe del Morro (El Morro), Castillo San Cristóbal, Paseo del Morro

Must-Do Activity

It does not matter which fort you start with, but both are unique and worth exploring with plenty of interpretive signs found throughout.  It is about a one-mile walk between the two forts on a sidewalk that follows the wall and bastions protecting the north side of Old San Juan (and providing a great overlook of the Cementerio Maria Magdalena de Pazzis).  Most visitors arrive by cruise ship, so drivers are very aware of pedestrians, and the whole area has sidewalks and crosswalks.

Best Trail

The Paseo del Morro follows the shoreline outside the walls surrounding the western edge of Old San Juan, only accessible from Castillo San Felipe del Morro or further south through the San Juan Gate.  Watch for friendly feral cats, huge orb-weaver spiders, and anole lizards along the paved route.

Instagram-worthy Photo

The forts’ sentry boxes (garitas) are the symbol of Old San Juan and all of Puerto Rico.  We had to add this park to the list of Top 10 National Park Service License Plates.

Peak Season

Year round

Hours

https://www.nps.gov/saju/planyourvisit/hours.htm

Fees

$10 per person or America the Beautiful pass

Road Conditions

Street parking is always full around the forts, but there is a parking deck with reasonable hourly rates.  The free White Trolley runs between the two forts and the cruise ship piers.

Camping

There are no campgrounds in San Juan, but plenty of other accommodations.  Camping on the island of Puerto Rico is permitted at Bosque Estatal de Cambalache, Bosque Estatal de Río Abajo, and Reserva Forestal de Carite.

Related Sites

Castillo de San Marcos National Monument (Florida)

Christiansted National Historic Site (U.S. Virgin Islands)

El Yunque National Forest (Florida)

Explore More – Who was the Irish-born engineer who designed Castillo San Cristóbal, because Spain and Ireland were both enemies of England?